In a city filled with sumptuous Italian restaurants run by talented Italian chefs and singular Italian restaurateurs, it seems almost unfair to single out just one. That is, it would seem unfair if you haven't dined on Forte dei Marmi's pata negra with green tomatoes bruschettone, followed by its sepia tagliatelle with caviar and agrume gel, then its magnificent Fiorentina-style 48-ounce T-bone to share. The fare ranges from wildly creative to traditional, all of it prepared with out-of-this-world execution. In accordance with the slow-food movement, chef Fabrizio Piga and owner Andrea Reitano rely on craft, simplicity, and high-quality organic ingredients to bind it all together, and in a jewel-box of a garden designed by Oppenheim and Milan-based Henry Timi, they 100 percent succeed.