Photo by Tomas Bernal
Audio By Carbonatix
If you’ve lived in South Florida long enough, you’ve either been to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park or you’ve pretended you’d go “soon.”
Tucked in Key Largo, in the upper Florida Keys, Pennekamp is less than 75 minutes from Miami — on a non-heinous traffic day — but feels like a different place entirely. It’s the park you venture to when you’re craving clear blue water, coral reefs, mangrove tunnels, and a reminder that, yes, Florida is absurdly beautiful when we don’t pave over it.
Before you load up the cooler, here’s what you need to know to make the best of a trip to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.
When should I go?
The park is open 8 a.m. to sunset, 365 days a year. Peak season runs from November through February, so if you visit then, you’ll find postcard weather, bigger crowds, and higher demand. September and October mean the peak of hurricane season, so keep an eye on forecasts. As for summer? It’s hot, yes. But the water is at its warmest, which makes snorkeling and diving extra comfortable.
What’s it going to cost me?
Admission costs $8 for a multiple-occupancy vehicle, plus 50 cents per person (up to eight people). After that, it’s $2.50 per additional person. Solo driver? That’ll run you $4.50. Pedestrians and cyclists pay $2.50. There’s also a $10 boat ramp fee for day use, and camping starts at $36 per night plus tax, with reservation and utility fees depending on your setup. You can purchase passes online in advance to save yourself the entrance-line shuffle.
What activities can I do there?
Start at the visitor center and aquarium (open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.), home to a 30,000-gallon saltwater tank filled with reef fish and smaller tanks showcasing coral and invertebrates. There are nature films, ranger-led programs, and Junior Ranger activities if you’ve got kids in tow.
The real magic, though, is offshore.
Glass-bottom boat tours aboard the 65-foot Spirit of Pennekamp run about 2.5 hours and offer a dry, air-conditioned look at the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. Snorkeling tours depart four times daily, giving you roughly 90 minutes of reef time among living coral and marine life. Guided options are available if you want a pro pointing out what you’re staring at. Scuba divers can book two-tank dives twice daily through the park’s PADI 5-Star facility — and yes, you can take courses if you’ve been meaning to get certified.
Prefer to stay above water? Rent kayaks, canoes, or paddleboards and explore 50 miles of mangrove trails. Power boat rentals are also available if cruising the Atlantic is more your speed. Just remember to never anchor in coral, watch for Diver Down flags, and avoid running engines in shallow nearshore areas under four feet.
Can I swim? Fish? Camp?
Swimming is popular at Cannon Beach and Far Beach (there are no lifeguards, so proceed with caution). Shore fishing is permitted in three designated areas, and boat fishing is allowed with awareness of protected zones. The campground has 42 reservable sites with electric, water, and sewer hookups, plus picnic tables and grills.
What about wildlife?
The park’s waters are home to more than 600 species of fish and 70 species of coral. You might spot manatees or even crocodiles in the marina or Largo Sound. On land, look for butterflies, lizards, shorebirds, and hardwood hammock species along the Wild Tamarind, Grove, and Mangrove trails.
What should I bring?
Sunscreen. Water. Hydration. Water shoes. An underwater camera. Waterproof bags for your phone. Reservations if you’re snorkeling or diving. And maybe a little humility — because once you float over living coral a few hundred yards offshore, it’s hard not to feel small in the best possible way.
Who is John Pennekamp, anyway?
John D. Pennekamp (1897-1978), for whom the park is named, was an influential environmentalist in his day. He moved from Cincinnati, Ohio, to Miami to report on the city’s Gilded Age land boom for the Herald, where he stayed for 50 years.
“Mr. Pennekamp’s campaigning in the mid‐1940s resulted in the dedication of Everglades National Park by President Harry S. Truman in 1947,” the New York Times wrote in the former editor’s obit. Pennekamp was particularly adamant about protecting Florida’s reefs, leading to the proposal for a Coral Reef Reserve. Today, that underwater park — the first in the U.S. — bears the name of one of its fiercest advocates.
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Open daily from 8 a.m. to sunset at 102601 Overseas Hwy., Key Largo; 305-676-3777; floridastateparks.org.
