A taste of next week's Cafe Review:
Rodriguez' ceviches were once seen as radical departures from the lime/onion/cilantro norm. Nowadays you're as likely to encounter a creamed herring ceviche with bagel croutons as you are a traditional rendition, but D-Rod remains the master of marinated raw fish (and credit to executive chef Luis Flores for orchestrating his concepts). Witness the tiradito of paper-thin snapper slicked with sour orange juice -- a sleek, tangy tarp for the ceviche confetti of conch, red pepper, tomato, and crispy fried onion threads.
D. Rodriguez Cuba At Astor Hotel
956 Washington Ave.