Sneak Review: Blue Door Fish

A peek at next week's Cafe review of the renamed and refocused restaurant at the Delano:Crabavocat and "big ravioli" are two longstanding Troisgrois classics still offered. The latter is sensational, a single, sizable, sumptuous ravioli plumped with mousseline of taro root, perfumed with a drizzle of truffle oil, and bathed...

By Lee Klein

April 8, 2011

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A peek at next week's Cafe review of the renamed and refocused restaurant at the Delano:

Crabavocat and "big ravioli" are two longstanding Troisgrois classics still offered. The latter is sensational, a single, sizable, sumptuous ravioli plumped with mousseline of taro root, perfumed with a drizzle of truffle oil, and bathed in a foam of wild mushroom "cappuccino". The crabavocat is really just a juiced-up version of crab-stuffed avocado, elevated by a spicy tomato coulis and a few crisp shrimp. We preferred the crabcake, large pearly lumps of jumbo lump crab barely bound by anything but a light bread coating.

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Miami New Times' restaurant reviewer for the past decade, and the world's indisputable master of disguise.

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