L'Entrecote de Paris: One Main Course, But a Good One

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More than a half century ago, Paul Gineste de Saurs purchased the Venice Inn in the 17th arrondissement of Paris. He wanted to sell his family's wine, and so made a weird choice: Offer but one dish -- steak. Soon, the place had a nickname: L'Entrecote -- which translates roughly to a very nice cut of cow.

L'Entrecote de Paris officially opens this Thursday in Brickell, but members of the press were invited to try the steak-frites last night.

See also: L'Entrecote de Paris: Authentic Steak Frites Coming to Brickell

Diners begin their meal with house made sourdough bread served warm and a fresh mixed greens salad drizzled with a yogurt and dijon mustard dressing and sprinkled with walnuts. Then comes the main course.

The dish is served with an excellent, 21-ingredient secret sauce. We're willing to bet that butter, garlic, and lemon made up three of the ingredients, which means there are only 18 more to guess at -- we're willing to return until we decode the recipe.

For dinner, the restaurant offers a 9-ounce cut of steak ($26), sliced and drizzled with the esoteric sauce, and served with allumette, aka shoestring fries. Fries are perfectly cooked, just salty enough, and unlimited. When it comes to the meat, patrons get to choose the temperature - including blue, which is less cooked than rare. For lunch, a 7-ounce portion is offered ($19.90).

While you may only have one option for your main course, there are 14 ways to assuage your sweet tooth, from profiteroles and mille feuilles with dulce de leche to fresh macaroons and a tri-color mousse consisting of layers of dark chocolate, white chocolate, and mint mousse ($7 - $8.50).

Of course, you should expect an extensive wine list at a French restaurant. Red is suggested, but you have several options starting at $7 a glass, to a bottle of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir for $21, to a Left Bank Bordeaux for $340.

L'Entrecôte de Paris opens Thursday at Brickell Plaza (1053 SE 1 Ave., Miami). The restaurant serves lunch and dinner Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. until 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday until midnight, and until 10 p.m. on Sunday. Call 305-755-9995 or visit lentrecotedeparis.com.

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