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Shoji Sushi

The third in a block-square eatery empire run by Nemo/Big Pink's owners, this beyond-sushi bar is, simply, a class act. And the sushi is equally cutting edge. Try a spicy lobster roll with avocado, salmon caviar, tender shiso leaves, and the hot/sweet counterpoint of jalapeño and mango; a California roll upgraded with delicately sweet, fresh Alaskan king crab; or a crisp oyster roll, featuring deep-fried battered oysters plus cucumber, masago, lettuce, chili mayo, and an unusual salty blast from capers that rendered soy-dipping unnecessary. For a change dinner at this sushi joint is a treat for nonsushi lovers, too: Grilled meats and seafood come with half a dozen tasty sauces; salads come with field greens (plus other seasonal treats like fresh hearts of palm) instead of standard Japanese-eatery iceberg. Don't miss shisito, absolutely addictive flash-fried Japanese peppers or the superb sweets, compliments of Nemo's pastry guru, Hedy Goldsmith.

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