Fish Fish

Fish Fish in North Miami occupies the same strip mall as a bank, a dry cleaner, and a pizza place. Despite its ordinary setting, though, this seafood restaurant is beyond quirky. Take the Baja fish tacos. Tucked into warm tortillas, grilled strips of grouper are perfectly cooked and covered in the expected pico de gallo. But then there are some oddities -- grated cheddar cheese and a "Baja" sauce that tastes suspiciously like ranch. You can scoff all you want at the pairing. Fish Fish doesn't mind. It makes no excuses for its antiquated ways. Instead, the seafood restaurant relishes in what others might consider square. On the menu, there's coleslaw, chicken piccata, and truffled Parmesan French fries. Sure, those shoestring potatoes may be tired and old-fashioned, but there's comfort in the tiny hunks of cheese that gather on the parsley-dotted plate. Pair those fries with the crispy hogfish. It's a deep-fried classic -- and it's absolutely delectable.