No Pause for Claws

Howie paused momentarily at the edge of the crowd, waiting for his field of vision to clear. He danced right, then faked left, spinning away from one obstacle after another. Then he spied an opening and took off, darting through the defensive line and into the end zone, where he…

Another Year Devoured

The start of the new year is a season as much for reflection as for anticipation. Past failures especially take on life all over again, a reincarnation that may prove uncomfortable for some. But it is this assessment, painful though it may be, that really allows us to look forward,…

There’s the Pub

Some say that good teachers can teach anything. I happen to think that’s true, to a point. Successful teaching does depend on imparting information in a clear and logical fashion. But knowledge of (or love for) what you’re giving lessons in is not exactly incidental. The best teacher is one…

Something Old, Something Noodle

One year, when my parents claimed to be too tired to go out on their anniversary and consume a four-star meal, my sister and I decided to supply it for them in the comfort of their own dining room. We could be as elegant as any restaurant, we told each…

A Confederacy of Munches

I had been looking forward to reading Pat Conroy’s latest best seller, Beach Music, for two reasons: I admire Conroy’s flowery style, and the Southern-boy protagonist in this novel, Jack McCall, is a food and travel writer. Devouring page after page of well-crafted, poetic descriptions of different dishes and cities,…

‘Scope Springs Eternal

Despite vultures, despite tourists, despite conventions galore, I look forward to the winter season for one reason: Important new restaurants, most of which have been remodeling, writing menus, and hiring staff for months, finally open to the public. In this city that seems to shut down over the summer, a…

A Bloom of One’s Own

“You have a great job,” acquaintances declare when they find out what I do. “You’re so lucky!” “Yup,” I agree unequivocally. Then they turn to my husband. “And do you get to go along?” “Of course,” he nods. “I wouldn’t let her go without me.” “Then you have an even…

Deli Dancing

I’m a sucker for gossip, which is the sole reason I maintain a subscription to the West Essex Tribune, my hometown paper. These past weeks I’ve gotten a good eyeful — letters to the editor and editorials about Don’s, the landmark eatery in Livingston, New Jersey. Seems that after a…

The Song Remains the Same

As long as I’ve lived in this town, I’ve felt guilty for not being Latin. Don’t get me wrong. It may have taken my entire adolescence, but I did learn to love my identity — my Jewishness, my femaleness, my Eastern European ancestry, my northeastern upbringing. All of those components…

Fear of Flying

I have this recurring nightmare, which always seems to hit me when I’m about to go out to a restaurant I’m almost positive will be very good: I dream I’m a P.R. flak paid to bang out praise, nothing but praise, about every joint in town. I told you it…

Tex-Mex Times Two

South Beach’s Mex Mess Cantina Mexicana and Southwestern Cafe and Tita’s became inexorably linked in my mind when they opened within months of each other last year. Both have Mexican-sounding names — the latter refers to the character from Lara Esquivel’s Like Water for Chocolate, a lovelorn girl who blended…

Poetry to the Palate

This week I asked my elementary school creative writing students to compose a haiku about their favorite food. I explained to them that because haiku are so short — three-line poems with five syllables in the first line, seven in the second, and five in the third — every word…

Remember the Mein

After dining at the month-old Chinese restaurant Wok & Roll, I’ve spent an agonizing week. Not that the fresh fare prepared by two-time Chaine des Rotisseurs (the French culinary society) award-winning chef Michael Choi wasn’t delicious, the service solicitous — they were. Not that the geometric walls (each sponged a…

Doggie Bag Blues

I often write about my mother, who passed on to me the fine points of fine dining. But I’ve neglected to mention the impression my father made upon me early in my childhood, which molded me into the good eater I am today. My father is a practical man, realistic,…

Azure Thing

I’ve been irresponsible. For the past few years I’ve been throwing around the term pan-Asian to label trendier restaurants that utilize Far Eastern ingredients (usually a combination of Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Japanese). You’ve probably figured out what I meant from the context — my comments about the menu, specific…

Gut Filling

As I see it, women and restaurants are alike in exactly one way: Once they earn a reputation, they’ve got it for life. Only it’s usually “bad” women who can’t shake public disdain, and “good” restaurants that never fall out of public favor even if they should. This month, in…

Mexican Standoff

“The thing I miss most about waitressing,” I told a friend not too long ago, “is the exercise.” Having spent her fair share of time dishing the fish, my friend heartily agreed. She never needed to go to the gym or watch what she ate while she was on the…

Simon’s Symbiosis

In a previous life, when I wrote for a travel magazine, I kept up a running argument with one of the advertising sales representatives. “Without the revenue I bring in, you wouldn’t have a job,” she’d tease after locking up an account such as American Express. “Without the text I…

Food for a Song

I’m a sucker for reunions, and this summer I attended a rather offbeat one — the get-together celebrating the 60th anniversary of the New England Music Camp. I spent three consecutive summers of my adolescence there on the shores of Lake Messalonskee, warming the silver of my flute under the…

Fish Fulfillment

I was born into a family of suburban fishermen. On weekends, vacations, and holidays while I was growing up, my father, brother, and sister liked nothing better than to drop a line into the water. They were pretty good at it, too. Show them a fast-running stream and they’d show…

Meat Don’t Fail Me Now

I phoned Las Pampas Argentinian Steak and Pasta House, a two-month-old restaurant on Biscayne Boulevard in North Miami. “Are you open?” I inquired. A reasonable question: It was a Monday night, and some restaurants in that neighborhood of strip malls and business offices find it more practical not to open…

Pate Favor

In the movie Big, Tom Hanks plays a young boy who is granted his fervent wish to be a grownup, treating the audience to scene after scene of a twentysomething man scouting out toy stores, engaging in food fights, and decorating his apartment with pinball tables and soda machines. My…