Of all the American writers living in Paris during the 1920s, Ernest Hemingway was one of the few who had to work for a living rather than living on family wealth. This made him a genuine starving artist, hence the source of many of the famous stories of the period…
If the adage “you are what you eat” were true, the Argentine language would consist of just one word: moo. Cambalache, a new Argentine restaurant in Sunny Isles, features, as all Argentine restaurants seem to, the parillada, whose dual translation can imply “grill” as well as “many grilled meats, some…
When chef Fabio Rolandi first arrived in Coral Gables from northern Italy in 1989, Italian food still basically meant mushy spaghetti with meatballs, and similar stuff never seen in Italy. In Northern Italian restaurants, mushy rice was substituted for the mushy spaghetti. Rolandi’s Casa Rolandi restaurant reputedly introduced South Floridians…
There’s a certain kind of eatery that once could be found all over the nation, those places I think of as “hippie hangouts,” and that’s not intended as derogatory. Rather it’s recognition that these casually artsy and creative cafés were more multimedia community centers with food than gourmet palaces, more…
Richard Nixon and Sen. Joe McCarthy wear nervous smiles while seated at one of Christy’s tables, steaks in front of them, a flash of the bulb capturing the moment for black-and-white eternity. Peter Lawford and Sammy Davis, Jr., mug for the camera, each waving a lamb chop in the air;…
It’s an old but generally sound culinary adage that the quality of a restaurant meal can be predicted by the quality of its bread. That’s what was puzzling about my first dinner at Fairwind Seafood Bar & Grill. The bread was halfway decent. On a return visit, however, the bread…
Daily Bread, a Middle Eastern market and eatery that opened on the tip of South Beach just over two months ago, is a spinoff of Daily Bread in South Miami. These operations should not be confused, though both will be, with two other Daily Bread Middle Eastern markets, one on…
The Italian menu is likely to appeal to most everyone: pastas, panini, antipasti, salads, calzones, and thin-crust pizzas. The décor is cookie-cutter direct: clean brick columns, wooden floors, and tables covered with white or red-and-white checkered cloths; walls painted in warm colors, a few shelves upon them stocked with blue-and-yellow…
It’s BBQ! It’s cowboy-kitschy in décor (old Wild West murals from the eatery’s early days almost 40 years ago, when Hialeah did a darned good imitation of a frontier town itself)! And mainly it’s almost the only place in Hialeah I can get to without getting lost. Okay, that’s a…
This winter — for the umpteenth time since 1971, when Alice Waters and the “California Cuisine” gang at Chez Panisse first fired up their wood braziers and chefs all over America started throwing out their sauté pans — word from our country’s leading food gurus has been that grilling is…
Even if you don’t recognize Cane Á Sucre as being the French way of saying “cane sugar,” and don’t notice the sign outside and on the front of the menu that says “French bakery, café, gourmet sandwiches,” chances are you’ll still know you’re in a French-style lunch spot. For one…
Ma-roosh goes the fan as it sweeps across gray embers and revives their red glow, which is how this Mediterranean restaurant in Coral Gables gets its name. Although new to the neighborhood, owner Samir Al-Barq has been dishing Middle Eastern specialties at Maroosh’s former Kendall site for more than a…
Although I’ve always thought idiotic the theory that formal food schooling should be required of restaurant reviewers (if the same standard was applied to restaurant chefs, South Florida would be minus major self-taught talents like Norman Van Aken and Ortanique’s Cindy Hutson), an exchange at the recent overwhelmingly successful South…
Remember the way Miss Piggy spoke “French”? Sure vous do! Vous can’t tell me that even 50-year-old readers don’t still sometimes sneak a peek at Sesame Street and Mlle. P’s exuberantly pretentious ventures into zee vaireee heavily accented faique Franglais. Less funny was the sort of faique French food that…
The Miami Design District is a nice neighborhood for strolling. The various antique and design shops contain interesting merchandise to peruse and you don’t have to worry about getting pushed around by a crowd. There never is one. At least not the times I’ve found myself walking here, in what…
Décor dripping with dragons, eye-popping red/green/gold-leafed pagodas, Chinese coolie peasants pulling rickshaws — even the name itself does not exactly scream “21st-century cuisine!” or even whisper the suggestion to savvy diners that authenticity might be on the menu at 67-year-old Fu Manchu, Miami Beach’s oldest Chinese restaurant. One expects not…
When China Grill first opened its doors in the spanking new Thomas Kramer building in 1996, the resultant buzz was so loud it gave other restaurateurs headaches. But the explosively successful opening was not what made this the most influential restaurant in the short history of modern South Beach. Rather…
If I’d wondered why I was vacationing in Curaçao — and friends from northern climes certainly had wondered why someone who lives on one subtropical Atlantic Ocean resort island would leave it for another — the definitive answer came the first night, about one mouthful into my entrée of paneer…
The lovely, ivy-covered Hotel Place St. Michel has graced the Coral Gables intersection of Ponce de Leon Boulevard and Alcazar Avenue since 1926. Back then it was the Sevilla Hotel. Inside this European-style inn is the Restaurant St. Michel, which likewise exudes a simple elegance by way of wooden floors,…
The outdoor lobby of Lincoln Road’s Sterling Building has proved to be a problematic location for restaurants. Pacific Time Café and South Beach Stone Crabs, the prior occupants, had to contend with moviegoers cutting through their dining room for entry into the Alliance Cinema, and the distraction of a large…
Of the many different styles of pizza available in Miami these days (Neapolitan, Roman, Sicilian, Chicago deep-dish, Cuban, and even in one Japanese joint, “Sushi Pizza”), the most difficult to define is New York pizza. The one constant is that, like native New Yorkers, every New York pizza lover has…
