Tried and True, In or Out

Okay, enough with the griping about the dearth of Asian restaurants in this town. Without a significant Asian migration, it’s unlikely we’ll get a cheap Vietnamese noodle shop on every corner, enough Korean barbecue to really make a choice, a taste of southern Indian Tamil cooking, or spicy Malaysian curries…

Dish

Unlike the events of the past few weeks, I remember my first winemaker’s dinner in detail. That’s because I was working it. I was a waitress at a tiny pasta joint called Ricco’s in Southern California, and, except for my husband who was a busboy, I was the only one…

Side Dish

Long before the Loews captured the collective unconscious of conventiongoers, the Hotel Inter-Continental in downtown Miami had garnered the dubious honor of being considered the premier housing for unwitting out-of-towners. Guests were tapped not only for luxury beds but for the handsome Oak Room, pretty much the power-meal staple in…

Ace en Provence

Pastis is an anise-flavor liqueur popular throughout the south of France, particularly on the Côte d’Azur in Provence. Locals there have even worked the word pastis into their dialect, using it to mean “confused,” or “mixed,” a definition that is derived from the cloudy appearance of the drink when water…

Dish

In San José State University’s seventeenth annual contest for the worst opening lines to an imaginary novel, Bob Perry took first place in the detective category for this gem: “The corpse exuded the irresistible aroma of piquant, ancho-chili glaze enticingly enhanced with a hint of fresh cilantro as it lay…

Ready-to-Eat

There’s a lot of Italian out there: the new and old, the good, the bad, and the ugly; the great, unfortunately, seem to be rare. I do think there are a few restaurants in town turning out exquisite cuisine from Europe’s boot. And there are plenty of decent places for…

In Sum, It’s Dim Good

I’ve never been a dim sum enthusiast: Peppery octopus, steamed shrimp balls, and other such delicacies are not my cup of tea come weekend brunch. Neither, for that matter, is a cup of tea. So it was with some trepidation that I recently trekked along with friends for dim sum,…

Haute Mayya Culture

(The story thus far: Efrain Veiga, of Yuca renown, announces plans for Mayya restaurant in Albion Hotel; partners include former big-league baseball player Billy Bean and Latin TV star Cristina Saralegui. Minimalist décor costs maximumist dollars — more than two million. Mexican-born Guillermo Tellez, having honed skills with illustrious Charlie…

Dish

I hear it all the time, from friends, from family, from virtual strangers. “I’d like to own a restaurant.” “I dream of running a bar.” “I could package this [insert special dish] and sell it.” And then the inevitable: “What do you think?” What can I say? Even with experience…

Side Dish

Allen’s 2 Go gourmet market in Aventura is going, going … gone. But not really. The shop that Chef Allen Susser had set up next door to his signature restaurant is merely moving — into cyberspace. Within six months, he says, customers will be able to log on to www.comfortfood2go.com…

Crazy Nutty Asian Place

When Beatlenut first opened last winter, neither I nor any of my foodie friends were tempted to try it, for one main reason: the nauseatingly cutesy misspelling of the name. The betel nut, the natural mood stimulant that Bloody Mary (the amply fed Hawaiian earth mama to all singing sailors)…

Say It Ain’t Joe’s

The stone crab “has a shell harder than a landlord’s heart,” wrote Damon Runyon, back in the days when Joe’s Stone Crabs was the only place on the Beach to get them. Many would say Joe’s is still the only place for stone crabs, but they’re speaking figuratively. Monty’s has…

Dish

The baguettes are painted like coral snakes. Bagels feature laminated pictures of toothily grinning children. A puffed-up pita bread poses as a comet, with pretzel sticks forming the tail. No this isn’t some psychedelic bakery courtesy of Lewis Carroll. It is the House of Bread, part of the newest temporary…

Side Dish

Trading one landmark for another, the Clevelander’s Kent Karpawich sold the hotel, built in 1938, to Herb Meistrich and his San Diego-based company, and bought into the 1800 Club a few months ago. Now called the 1800 Bar and Grill, the eatery has regained some of its supper-club glamour. Karpawich…

Tango Town

The fat cows have new neighbors: Tango Beef Café has settled in across the street from the popular Normandy Isles parillada, Las Vacas Gordas. Tango Café is a parillada as well. Loosely translated it means “place where meats are grilled” Argentine style, which refers not only to the side of…

Dish

Seven years ago, while reading Miami New Times for the first time, I spotted an advertisement seeking a restaurant critic. Aside from qualifications it asked, “Do you have the stomach for this job?” Ambitious, hungry, and more than a little naïve, I thought I surely had both the background and…

Two Men and a Restaurant

Franz & Josephs opened last December with little fanfare: no stars, no multimedia PR campaign, no famous chefs or fanciful themes. Seems they’re intent on succeeding with a comforting ambiance, reliable service, and good (though not exceptional), moderately priced food. Sounds a little far-fetched, I know, but supposedly millions of…

Side Dish

So have you caught the new Miami Herald “Weekend” section, er, Street? The debut issue of Street coincidentally features the same dining review as “Weekend,” titled “Nexxt has great atmosphere and, er, leisurely service,” and concludes that “The verdict in this court is that, hmm, maybe Nexxt drew some inspiration…

Tastes Like the Rio Thing

To label Barroco Restaurant simply Brazilian would be like calling Caffe Abbracci a pasta joint. Unlike the churrasco houses that are sprouting up from New York to Los Angeles, here you won’t find any strolling meat carvers wielding sharp knives and hunks of flesh. No skewers of chicken hearts. Not…

Dish

Friday, October 15, 12:01 a.m. Stone crab season officially begins. Crabbers are now allowed by law to pull up the traps they set days ago. But Hurricane Irene nibbles her lip in the Florida Straits — where to turn? Her storm-force winds exceed 50 miles per hour — too dangerous…

Side Dish

Miami chefs seem to have the trajectories of hurricanes these days. Take for example Guillermo Veloso, who earned his chops at Restaurant St. Michel before becoming executive chef at Yuca on South Beach several years ago. After leaving Yuca he bounced around among restaurants, including a couple of Italian joints…

The Buena Sandwich Social Club

Many pale people will soon flee their frigid habitats to visit friends and relatives here in the Sunshine State. That means they are coming to our houses. Now I don’t know about your out-of-town guests, but as soon as mine unpack their bags, they begin to pester me with predictable…