The Zion King

Bissaleh Café is a kosher Israeli dairy restaurant/pizza place/ juice bar/coffee bar. Not, you might say, your typical, everyday dining establishment. The décor can best be described as a Yiddish Vacas Gordas, with more space between the tables. Like that Argentine parillada, it’s a small, informal room with 30 to…

Franks for the Memories

This review will only be of interest to those who plan on heading out to catch a Marlins baseball game. All 60 of you. Of course the Fish, as the team is endearingly called, cannot hope to contend this year because their player payroll is only slightly higher than what…

Side Dish

South Beachites, don’t panic. Despite Chrysanthemum’s darkened quarters and restaurant-for-sale sign on the front door, the Beach’s finest flower has not dropped its petals. Rather the gourmet Chinese eatery has moved to Coconut Grove. Despite a very successful run on Washington Avenue, the owners chose not to renew their lease…

Dish

Here are the rumors: Bicoastal celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa may be bringing his pan-Asian talents to Miami — there’s talk of the Shore Club location. Top toque Jean-Georges Vongerichten could be doing the same. And the Big Apple’s Keith McNally, whose Balthazar, which publishes one phone number but keeps a…

Dish

I was watching The Newlywed Game. So sue me for bad taste. But to be honest, I wasn’t really paying attention until the bonus round, when after four questions that centered on sexual innuendo, host Bob Eubanks asked the wives: “Of the three traffic-light colors of bell peppers, which one…

Stripped-down Italian

The Palm Plaza Shopping Center is just another nondescript strip mall, one of hundreds, maybe thousands, marring Miami’s landscape. My feeling has always been that if you’re going to uglify a neighborhood, the least you can do is offer good food, and Palm Plaza does just that. It’s got Chinese,…

Dish

I was reading Italian Fever, author Valerie Martin’s delicious little ghost story of a novel set in Tuscany, and I was getting hungry. Perhaps this isn’t surprising, given that I’m starving all the time these days. But I was stirred by Martin’s exaltations over the fare her protagonist Lucy was…

A View to a Gill

Key Biscayne and Virginia Key boast breathtaking views of sunsets over the bay and of Miami’s skyline as it transforms first into dusky silhouette, then into glittering lights as night falls. Naturally there are seafood restaurants eager to take advantage of such snapshot vistas, the Rusty Pelican probably being the…

Here’s Cooking at You

I’ve lately found myself insisting, to whomever will listen, that when it comes to dining in ethnic restaurants I’m no nitpicking stickler for authenticity; I simply wonder why those who serve watered-down, clownlike mockeries of such cuisines even bother at all. When those who will listen happen to be the…

Dish

At first glance it looks as though this year’s season claimed more than its share of restaurant victims. Of the places that went out of business in recent months, several of them appeared to be high-end, well-funded untouchables: Mayya, Thoa’s on Ponce, Petrossian, Jada. But out of all of them,…

Side Dish

In order to protect his/her anonymity, any ethical restaurant critic plays by the unwritten rules: Don’t make a reservation under your own name. Don’t scribble notes on top of the table. And never, ever allow your picture to be taken. Once your identity is blown, how can you have an…

Dish

You’ve just been served a glistening tray of sushi. The salmon practically quivers with freshness and vitality; the yellowtail snapper looks like velvet, laid out over the rice; and the tuna is the most tempting of all, the rich, ruby redness beckoning your first bite. You decide to eat the…

Heart of Palm

The Palm premiered in Bay Harbor Islands in 1986, but it has the Joe’s Stone Crab, old-timey feel of an institution that’s been around forever. The original Palm in New York does go back pretty far — to 1926, which is when John Ganzi and Pio Bozzi, two immigrants to…

Dish

Ah, the banana. If you’ve looked around our markets lately, you might have noticed the several varieties from which you can make your selection. You can choose the short and chunky dwarf, finger, or red banana. You can check out the bananas that taste like other fruit — the Manzano…

Mariachi and Chips

It was on the drive to Tequila Sunrise that one of my dinner guests inquired as to what sort of place we were headed. “Mexican,” I replied, though it turned out she had already surmised that. I really didn’t know any more, other than having been told by someone who…

Side Dish

The prodigal chef returns. Hang on to your Caribbean Cowboy hats, boys and girls — Johnny Vinczencz has reclaimed his place in the kitchen at Astor Place. The chef decided to sign on again when he and his investor couldn’t find an appropriate South Beach location for their dream eatery…

Diner Declaration

Deborah Calderon is the “D” and Clare Kelley the “Clare” of I Do D’Clare, a cozy 65-seat breakfast and lunch spot on Ponce de Leon, just off South Dixie Highway in the Gables. The same location used to house another restaurant, Loffler’s, where Deborah cooked and Clare waited tables. Two…

Dish

Thus far in my lifetime, I’ve vowed never again to do three things: be pregnant, board a boat, or drink tequila. All three, you see, turn my rather weak stomach as easily as a hurricane upsets a kayak. So it was with no minor trepidation that I, four months in…

Something Nuevo at Yuca

Like many curious New Yorkers whose acquaintance with Cuban food was largely limited to the tasty but pretty basic mom-and-pop Cuban/Chinese joints that once sprouted on every block of Manhattan’s Upper West Side, I devoured the New York Times piece that came out shortly after Douglas Rodriguez’s Yuca first opened…

Sopa Cabana

A civilized Latin supper club seems out of place amid the raucous scene of South Beach’s Washington Avenue, but that’s exactly the point behind Bolero Bar & Grill — a place on kid row for adults to enjoy. Apparently the mature elements of Miami have gotten word, as this 72-seat…

Ice Nice, Baby

Icebox Cafe. 1657 Michigan Ave, Miami Beach; 305-538-8448. Open every day except Monday, 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. (lunch/brunch) and 7:00 to 11:00 p.m. (dinner); on weekends open till 1:00 a.m. for pastries.

Taste of Bambú

Rarely has a restaurant in South Florida been so anticipated as pan-Asian Bambú, largely because of its co-owner, Cameron Diaz, who hooked up with her restaurateur/hotelier partners Karim Masri and Hubert Baudoin while shooting There’s Something About Mary in Miami. For months preceding the opening this past February, strollers regularly…