Unfinished Canvas

Britto’s paintings are boastfully commercial in nature. Those in the art world can debate whether this quality diminishes his reputation as a serious artist, but there’s no doubt the bold lines and bright colors make for a cheery, even dazzling dining room décor at his namesake restaurant in South Beach…

Cheeseburger Cheeseburger, 1, 2, 3

Let’s start with the basics: There are three types of “eat-out,” as opposed to homemade, burgers. One is the slider, a thin two-biter that slides down the digestive tract so fast even skinny supermodels need to order a six-pack. White Castles (Krystals for Southerners) are the classic sliders. Two is…

Sushi on the Boulevard

So you’re a couple of New York guys who have just relocated. It’s earlier this year. It’s lunchtime. You’ve been doing something-or-other in Miami Shores, and are cruising south past some of the increasingly snazzy neighborhoods bordering Biscayne Boulevard, like Belle Meade and Morningside. You are real hungry. And what…

Eat It Raw

We used to refer to it as anti-establishment, or the counterculture, composed of those who espoused such things as vegetarianism, communal living, recycling, and organic, sustainable farming. But in the past twenty years or so we’ve seen the edges move toward the center, especially when it comes to culinary choices…

Honey, I Shrunk the Greens

So where does Romeo’s get cozy with Escopazzo, Baleen slip under the sheets with Bice, and the Ritz get in bed with Azul? In Paradise, of course. Make that Paradise Farm, the living-a-dream business started by owner Gabriele Marewski last October. This five-acre organic, sustainable farm, which caters only to…

Noodles Of Engagement

There are no menus handed out at Macaluso’s, a smart-looking Italian restaurant sitting almost secretly in a ministrip mall off Alton Road in South Beach. Instead most of the ten appetizers and seventeen main courses were rapidly enumerated by our waiter, a practice that I believe unfairly punishes those of…

Disco Lives

Since there’s no dance music blaring over this humble luncheonette place, it’s hard to figure why Disco Fish is named that. Perhaps the reference is intended to suggest fish so fresh they’re still party animals boogying direct from boat to plate. However, though the eatery co-bills itself as a fish…

Mucho Gusto

The first time I dined at Gusto’s, with Victoria, was the evening after she’d put the family cat in the clothes dryer. “The cat went in by hisself,” Victoria disagreed, demurely. “Yeah,” grimaced Victoria’s grandmother Marci. “Luckily she couldn’t figure out how to turn the thing on.” Victoria is three,…

South Beach North

This summer, my Livingston, New Jersey hometown newspaper, the venerable West Essex Tribune (yes, I have a subscription), embarked on a very important series: comparing towns, also named Livingston, from other areas of the country. How does their quality of life rate against that in our beloved suburbia? How can…

Norman to Open New Nest

This week, the news is big. Really, truly huge. So titanic that it is, for lack of a better word, on par with el mundo. On second thought, make that MUNDO. While the former means the world, the latter spells Norman Van Aken’s officially announced new restaurant, due to open…

August Wines

Is August really the dog days of summer? Not bloody Mary likely. In Miami the second half of August is shaping up to be more like the hair-of-the-dog days of summer. To wit: Restaurants like Café Del Mar in Miami Shores and Titanic Brewery and Restaurant have both reached seemingly…

Delhi Fare

In 1975 President Gerald Ford dodged Squeaky Fromme’s bullet, South Vietnam surrendered to the communists, Sonny and Cher called it quits, and House of India opened on Merrick Way in Coral Gables. “I hope they’ve given it a paint job since then,” I said to my wife on the way…

Johnny V’s New Kitchen

“Jaboticaba.” Johnny Vinczencz says the word as if he’s chewing it, standing in what can only be described as Delray Beach’s topmost tropical Eden. “Jaboticaba.” Or, in retrospect, as if he’s getting used to uttering it. The latter’s probably the more apropos metaphor, since he’s now picking that particular fruit…

Meatballs For a Bear Market

“Little man felt very bad/One meat ball was all he had/And in his dreams he hears that call/’Ya gets no bread with one meat ball.'” –“One Meat Ball,” Depression-era song written by Louis Singer & Hy Zaret. I’m not saying our economy is going to stay down in the dumpster…

Fit For a Moghul

When two Indian restaurants in London won Michelin stars (only rarely bestowed upon ethnic eateries) last year, it initiated a spate of stories in American food publications about not just the goat cheese samosas on fresh pear chutney and other modernized neo-Indian dishes featured at the starred spots, but also…

Hot Spot From the Oven

With even Publix serving up subs using premium-brand cold cuts, it’s clear there’s no shortage these days of sources for sandwiches with pretty respectable interiors. What’s almost always a disappointment is the exterior — the bread. That’s what makes year-old Taste Bakery Café’s concept so appealing: Unlike umpteen other cafés,…

The Teté Offensive

When Gary Danko’s eponymous restaurant opened in San Francisco three years ago, it won the James Beard Foundation’s “Best New Restaurant” award and received the first of three Five-Star ratings from Mobil. At the same time Chef Danko, previously selected as one of the ten best new chefs in America…

Parrilla Party

In Argentina “eat” means meat (per capita consumption is the world’s highest), and “meat” means beef. At least so I’ve heard. I’ve never actually been to Argentina. And actually, before some recent visits to Angus Grill I’d never even been to one of Miami’s growing number of Argentine parrillada restaurants,…

The Making of a Manatic

Summertime is locals’ dining time — prix-fixe menus, all-you-can-eat specials, two-for-one deals, half-priced bottles of wine. But aside from saving money (except for the bucks you’ll have to spend on a bigger bathing suit), you couldn’t be less thrilled with the culinary scene at the moment. It’s just plain boring…

The King Of Calle Ocho

Fritas are Cuban-style hamburgers, a beef patty seasoned with paprika and onions, griddle-fried, and stuck in a bun with a thatch of canned shoestring potatoes. It’s the ultimate Cuban street food, eaten on the go from stands, and wolfed down in lieu of hot dogs at ballparks. It is the…

Spinning Meal

French doors of mahogany and glass front the big, bistroish 150-seat Orsini, the restaurant’s tables, chairs, and sizable bar crafted from the same dark wood. Rose-shaped milk glass chandeliers hang on decoratively tiled walls, as do large mirrors and hundreds of old photos of famous and semifamous people; the floor…

Emperors of Ice Cream

I’ve been bothered ever since I read Al Martinez’s essay, “Confessions of an Ice Cream Fanatic,” published in the August 2000 issue of Gourmet magazine. At first I couldn’t pinpoint the source of my distaste, but after two years of reflecting on the article’s thesis — that the “Statue of…