Don’t Believe the HYPE!

Ever wonder how local food writers keep abreast of what’s going on in the always-shifting world of Miami dining, or marvel at the way they manage to come up with all those neat adjectives, apropos quotes, and pertinent information about so many intriguing new restaurants and cuisines? It’s actually pretty…

The Name Game

Cautiously optimistic” is how I would have described my reaction, if anyone bothered to ask, after finding out that Suzanne’s Market in South Beach had been replaced by Neam’s Gourmet. Suzanne’s had been in my neighborhood for quite a few years, so I can attest that as an “upscale” food…

Bad Max

Dennis Max’s latest venture, Max’s Place, is now open in Bal Harbour Shops, in the space where Petrossian used to spoon out caviar. Things haven’t been altered much inside, which is fine, because the tall ceiling, neat cherrywood trim, and plush banquettes make for a handsome and comfortable dining room;…

What’s Cooking for the Kitchen

So Judd Hirsch and Tony Danza both had something going with Marilu Henner while they all starred together in Taxi. How do you like that? I gleaned this tidbit of trivia while watching one of Entertainment Tonight’s behind-the-scenes specials that focus on faded TV shows. We’ve all become passive observers…

A Natural Innocence

It’s always a letdown when the waiter in a quaint picture-perfect café hands out a slipshod piece of paper that passes as a menu. First thing most of us do is turn it over to see if there’s anything else written on the other side. Artichoke’s is the antithesis: The…

Menus by the Book

The primary purpose of a menu is to inform us what a restaurant has to offer and how much they charge. It may seem simple, but composing this list is one of the most difficult and important tasks of a restaurateur, as a menu also must reflect the seasonal availability…

Tale of Four Cities

Highly regarded food writer John F. Mariani, commenting on the culinary capabilities of American cities in the book Dining Out (Dornenburg and Page), refers to New York as “unquestionably the restaurant capital,” Seattle as “interesting,” and San Francisco as “a little pompous about their food,” which is “not such a…

Mildly Wild About Harry’s

Dining on Cuban food often dictates a choice between dirt-cheap dives dishing out decent fare and upscale establishments that serve nuevo Latino cuisine as incongruously overgarnished as Fidel Castro in a tuxedo. Havana Harry’s, a 200-seat family-style Cuban restaurant on Le Jeune, one block west of South Dixie Highway, falls…

The Real Miami Circle, Act Three

Read Part 1 or Part 2 Flattery easily can turn a restaurateur’s head. Too easily, as it turns out. In 1997 snowbirds loyal to Dennis Max convinced the man and his company that the Northeast was ready for his concept. Specifically this group of investors wanted Unique Restaurant Concepts to…

A Good Kinda Jerk

It was while sitting at home, watching the presidential debate on TV, that I suddenly found myself seized by an insatiable craving for jerk chicken. Go figure. So I headed to Jerk Machine, located in North Miami (other locations include Sunrise, Opa-locka, Coral Springs, and Hollywood), a place whose motto…

Take It Back, Please!

Rodz of South Beach, a restaurant and lounge nestled in the center of Española Way, serves cuisine that is self-described as “Pan Asian, Continental, and Mediterranean, with an American influence.” Whenever I come across such globally ambitious concepts, a little warning flag pops up: cooks of all countries, masters of…

The Real Miami Circle, Act Two

When restaurateur Mary Anne Richter initially dined at Café Max in Pompano Beach, about three days after it opened in 1984, she was hardly impressed. “I went in for dinner with two friends, and everything that could have gone wrong went wrong,” she laughs. “They lost the exhaust, you couldn’t…

The Real Miami Circle, Act One

Prologue: About six weeks ago, in Bal Harbour Shops, a restaurant called Max’s Place opened in the space where Petrossian formerly held court. It was only a few months after Petrossian had gone out of business, and the entire space needed to be revamped to fit the new concept. But…

Got the Look, Lacks the Taste

Back in the days when cars had tail fins and Elvis was a hound dog, the Morris Lapidus-designed Eden Roc hotel was one of the hottest celebrity hangouts in town. But cars got smaller and Elvis got fat and, like a lot of Miami Modern structures, the Eden Roc went…

All Hopped Up

Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant, which opened on Brickell Avenue just two months ago, currently is hosting downtown’s hottest Friday after-work party, drawing the same mass of young professionals as last season’s sizzling Firehouse Four shindigs. This is the sixteenth such microbrewery/restaurant that founders Dan Gordon and Dean Biersch have launched…

Fan of La Mancha

Manuel Martinez came up with a novel idea: to re-create the town square of La Mancha, circa 1605, as the setting for his Spanish Don Quixote Restaurant. Martinez, a fan and scholar of the Cervantes masterpiece (his production of the play runs at South Beach’s Colony Theater this month), forwarded…

Out of the Frying Pan

There’s an old restaurant joke currently recirculating: Three restaurateurs are chatting about old times. The first recalls a fire in his place. Rather than reopen he decided to take the insurance money and retire. The second remembers how robbers broke in and vandalized his eatery. He, too, got out of…

Side Dish

One Rascal is never enough, it seems. Jerry’s Famous Deli Inc., a.k.a. the Starkman family, which also runs Wolfie Cohen’s Rascal House and Epicure Market, has leased the space at 1450 Collins Ave. The location will be developed as a Jerry’s Famous Deli. According to Jason Starkman, operating proprietor of…

Gaelic Breath

When Dubliners enter their local pub, the feeling is one of immediate comfort, like slipping into a pair of well-worn shoes. The spacious interior of the Playwright Irish Pub & Restaurant handsomely mimics the antique look that comes naturally to those ancient, tin-ceilinged, gas-lamp-adorned drinking establishments, but it’s still too…

Cuisines of the Damned

Russia is not the best place to be right now, as we were reminded by the not-so-subtle sub metaphor for a nation sinking fast in an ocean of corruption and economic chaos. Still, I’d rather be there than in Colombia, that spot rife with right-wing paramilitaries, left-wing guerrillas, drug militia,…

And the Winner Is …

Blame it on The Spitfire Grill. In that 1996 film, an ex-con persuades an aging restaurateur, whose eatery has been on the market for ten years, to run an essay contest. Entry fee: 100 dead presidents. Prize: the Spitfire Grill, a rustic diner in backwoods Maine. Four years later, thanks…

Greaser’s Delight

Seating prospects at the lunch spot we had just entered didn’t look good. I suggested we leave and eat somewhere else, though admittedly I was more put off by a sign on the window reading “Gourmet Sandwiches” than at having to wait for a table (I distrust any place that…