If cooking is an art, the hamburger is a blank canvas. Make it very big or very small. Paint it with ketchup, mustard, mayo, sun-dried tomato aioli. Texture it with lettuce, tomato, cheese, bacon, coleslaw. Frame it with a sesame seed bun, ciabatta roll, hunk of sourdough, crusty baguette. Whether…
The swank new Regent South Beach hotel, which debuted all of a year ago, is now operating under new management, a group called Vincci Hoteles. Does this mean that the property’s signature restaurant, Table 8, will be deep-sixed? We’ll have to wait and see…….New owners of B.E.D. Miami, which opened…
At famous uptown NYC venues like the Lenox Lounge and the Cotton Club, entertainers such as Billie Holiday and Duke Ellington’s big band were sophisticated, and the soul food was scrumptious. The same has been true of the numerous new Harlem supper clubs that have opened since the neighborhood’s revival…
Pascal Oudin, born in Bourbon-Lancy, France, was working in professional kitchens at age 13. Within a few years he was being recognized as a wunderkind apprentice chef. Then came further training under Alain Ducasse, three-star Michelin masters Roger Vergé and Joseph Rostang, and the late, great Jean-Louis Palladin, who mentored…
Asking for tap water can be touchy when eating at a restaurant that typically exceeds one’s budget. But the waiter at The Restaurant at The Setai on South Beach didn’t even toss us a haughty, “cheapskates” glance when a dining mate asked for “normal water” during our Miami Spice lunch…
Hats off, chef It was standing room only at Starbucks Hear Music Store on Lincoln Road yesterday. Must’ve been 70 or 80 people crowded in to see star chef Marcus Samuelsson and Starbucks’ master coffee blender Andrew Linnemann demonstrate the pleasurable pairing possibilities of coffee and comestibles. Samuelsson is the…
I just recently noticed that Fifty Restaurant on Miami Beach’s Ocean Drive, home of chef Roly Cruz-Taura’s progressive American cuisine, is now 444 Ocean. As evidenced by the menu, it appears to have downgraded into another of that street’s many meccas of mediocrity. But enough naysaying. Local food commentary, mine…
Sometimes you can judge a book by its cover, and by the cover of Les Halles, the judgment is: We are sooo French. French as the 35-hour workweek, French as 10,000 handmade cheeses and gloriously crusty baguettes, French as sipping a glass of rustic red wine at a cute little…
Ishq, the contemporary Indian restaurant whose opening at 530 Ocean Drive, South Beach, has been “highly anticipated” (re:long delayed), will finally start cooking this Friday (September 14). Owners Sham and Kavita Kamlani promise “Bombay street fare in an oceanside setting” and a menu of traditional dishes (samosas, masalas, tandooris) complemented…
In 1994, Two Chefs was a combination cooking school and gourmet retail outlet in South Miami. Two years later chef/owners Jan Jorgensen and Soren Bredahl opened the cozy, 100-seat restaurant at the same site. Soren has since returned to Denmark, the wine list has expanded, prices have gone up a…
I was a young man, alone, in Amsterdam. The third item on my to-do list, after visiting the Heineken brewery and Anne Frank’s house, was to partake of a rijsttafel. I knew nothing about food back then, but the tourist guides insisted that sampling this Dutch-Indonesian specialty was a must…
Certain kinds of eateries are irresistible to certain types of restaurant reviewers. What I can’t pass up is weirdness — places that serve unlikely, usually global combinations. This siren song somehow persists perennially for me, even though decades of exploration (in joints ranging from New York’s first Japanese/French restaurants to…
Enter here, vegans As any meat-free Miamian knows, there is a dearth of vegetarian dining options in the Magic City. But according to People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), there’s one area where we excel at being meatless: the ballpark. PETA named Dolphin Stadium (home of the Florida…
Take your pick Next month Market Grill, an Argentine-style “boutique meat market” and food shop will open in the Blockbuster Plaza at 1539 Alton Road. The signature offering will be a “Pre-Selected Parrillada,” where you’ll be able to tell the butcher the amount of people expected at your BBQ, and…
Welcome to Fall! What’s the difference between an Independence Day barbecue and a Labor Day barbecue? Around these parts, about five degrees. Seriously: Why are two distinct holidays held in different seasons celebrated via the same menu of hamburgers, hot dogs, and the like? Thanksgiving has its turkey, Easter its…
Ten Misconceptions About Barbecue: 1. Grilled and barbecued foods are ideal for summertime. I don’t think so. I mean it sure doesn’t feel ideal standing over a hot outdoor grill in simmering midsummer Miami. In fact it feels pretty gritty and more than a little insane. And fatty, smoky, heavy…
Oh, Lord, not another Italian restaurant!” “Yes, Bill, another Italian restaurant. But be of good faith and despair not, for verily and forsooth I say unto you that you will not have to consume one more crappy caesar salad — I can see Julius rotating in his grave already —…
Fans of Miami chef Michelle Bernstein’s culinary creations no longer have to journey to her famed Michy’s Mediterranean-style bistro to sample a taste of her talents. Beginning September 13, Delta Airlines will be serving up an exclusively crafted series of the celebrity chef’s meals to its passengers. Well, those in…
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, a national chain with a local branch in Coral Gables, has come up with an innovative idea: A Web site that takes viewers on a virtual tour of five esteemed vineyards that provide the restaurant with some of its exceptional wines. The voyage is…
If there could be such a thing as an upside to war, it would be the exchange of culinary ideas that takes place between clashing nations. Had our soldiers not developed a taste for pizza while they were stationed in Naples during World War II, who knows if those Italian…
Cruising through the crowd at Doraku during a recent Friday happy hour, a diner who had not been to this SoBe sushi spot since it opened in 2000 wouldn’t have even a hint it was the same space. A room that began life as a pop-art hallucination — amoebalike primary-color…
A gaping hole has appeared in the Miami dining scene, and it is being stuffed with meat. Norman’s, Pacific Time, Johnny V, and a host of other chef-driven establishments have closed during the past year. Filling in are DeVito chop house, Grimpa’s Steakhouse featuring rodizio from Brazil, Texas de Brazil…
