Soiree at Vice: A Supper Club Disguised as a Nightclub

You know the old riddle what's black and white and red all over? Well, it could be a newspaper, a zebra with a sunburn or Vice Lounge on Lincoln Road. The decor is anything but subtle, unless you consider a New Orleans bordello subtle.

So when we were invited to try out the new Soiree supper club concept that Vice Lounge offers every Thursday to Saturday from 6:30 to 11 p.m. (before the restaurant turns into a nightclub), we agreed to give it a try.

What we received was a great meal. Though there weren't any surprises in the way of foams, infusions or magic tricks, the food was done well and flavorful. Our server, clad in a leather bustier and mini-skirt, wheeled over a champagne cart and proceeded to pour us some bubbly as we perused the menu, which consisted of mostly chop house favorites.

After an amuse bouche of pate, we ordered the gravlax (market prices), burrata and Campari tomato salad ($13), and oysters Rockefeller (totally old school dining). A slow-braised Tomahawk beef short rib ($29) followed, along with a wild mushroom risotto (market price). We were "coerced" into having a New York-style cheesecake for dessert, one of the few desserts that are made in-house.

In conclusion, it's not many restaurants where you can dine alongside an empty stripper pole and human-sized bird cage. But, hey, not everyplace is South Beach, now is it?

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