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Sneak Review: Mandolin Aegean Bistro

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A little meze to sample in advance of next week's New Times Café review.

Mandolin performs straightforward cooking best, whether it be an

assertively grilled whole yellowtail -- its pristine white flakes primped

with lemon and olive oil -- or a sweet, tender curlicue of grilled

octopus misted with the same Mediterranean lubricants. Even chicken

kebab, which is usually just menu fodder for timid eaters, turned out

to be unexpectedly rousing -- five huge, juicy hunks of deliciously

grilled white meat enhanced further when dipped into a side dish of

tzatziki.

Mandolin Aegean Bistro
4312 NE Second Ave., Miami
305-576-6066

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