Restaurant Reviews

Jeffrey Chen Branches Out With Dumpling Joint Momi Gyoza Bar

There's no better way to start a meal than with a puff of steam floating off a bamboo tray packed with swollen soup dumplings.

At Momi Gyoza Bar, which joined the fray in Brickell two months ago, chef and owner Jeffrey Chen's version of xiao long bao relies on the tacky, creamy broth from his ramen shop around the corner. Minced pork and shredded cabbage combine with a reduction of the stock made from pork bones that's often steeped a full day and night. When cooled, the mixture settles into a gel. But after being twisted up with handmade skins and steamed, the little packets tremble before gushing their savory insides.

See also: Momi Oyster, Momi Wine Joining Jeffrey Chen's Expanding Brickell Empire

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Zachary Fagenson became the New Times Broward-Palm Beach restaurant critic in 2012 before taking up the post for Miami in 2014. He also works as a correspondent for Reuters.
Contact: Zachary Fagenson