Chefs and food enthusiasts have been scrambling to get in. Yet it's most heartening to see that the Patels' food, which for the past few months has been dished out to guests invited to his Homestead home, is now available to the broader public.
Much ado has been made about the dishes Ghee will offer as both a nod to the Patels' roots in Gujarat — India's lush, fertile westernmost state — and as a way to broaden diners' horizons.
For that dhokla ($6), the kitchen makes a semolina dough that's steamed to yield a delicate, savory bright-yellow cake with a texture similar to that of angel food. A smattering of pickled peppers, herbs, and black mustard seeds rounds out the dish.
Niven Patel's backyard pakora ($8) were the stuff of legend at his dinners. The huge taro leaves Indians call elephant ears are chopped down and combined with squash, calabaza, and just enough chickpea-and-rice-flour batter to bind it all together before frying.
There is also a sizable offering of curries, as well as grilled items. The first section plies some familiar options, such as chicken tikka masala ($14) and house-made paneer cheese ($13) with green peas and fenugreek. Lamb kofta ($15) arrives with a quartet of delicate, perfectly cooked meatballs in a pool of rich sauce fortified with cashews, raisins, and spinach.
The most alluring section, however, is the vegetables. Many of the recipes come from the Patels' parents, vegetarians who can be spotted overseeing and working in the kitchen. Sure, there's duck confit biryani ($14) and pork belly vindaloo ($18), but if Mom is eating lentils and eggplant, you want lentils and eggplant.
Green millet ($10) is a food of subsistence across India and likely has been for thousands of years. Niven Patel calls it "the most special dish on the menu." The grain has a light smoky flavor and is cooked down with black mustard seed, leaving it with a deeply complex, nutty spice that isn't overpowering thanks to the millet's starchiness.
Finally, dessert brings classic offerings such as the sweet, starchy balls called gulab jamun ($10), with grilled peaches and pistachios, as well as a black cardamom kulfi, similar to ice cream, that's savory thanks to a heavy infusion of the herb paired with strawberries, chocolate, almonds, and pistachios.
Ghee Indian Kitchen
8965 SW 72nd Pl., Miami; 305-968-1850.