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Ishq, the contemporary Indian restaurant whose opening at 530 Ocean Drive, South Beach, has been “highly anticipated” (re:long delayed), will finally start cooking this Friday (September 14). Owners Sham and Kavita Kamlani promise “Bombay street fare in an oceanside setting” and a menu of traditional dishes (samosas, masalas, tandooris) complemented by “the less traditional” -- like a portobello “naanini” sandwich and Bombay baby back ribs.


I’m not saying these mock concoctions won’t turn out tasty, but are there really not enough Indian foods to comprise a diverse menu without adding such bastardized filler? Am I so out of the loop that I don’t realize that diners who go out to eat Indian food are secretly yearning for baby back ribs? And do proprietors of our ethnic eateries consistently feel the need to pad their menus with goofy fusions and timid renditions because they don’t have enough faith in their own cuisine, or is it because they underestimate the public’s culinary sophistication? The answers, respectively, are no, no, and both. --Lee Klein

Keep Miami New Times Free... Since we started Miami New Times, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Miami, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Miami with no paywalls.

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Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Miami.


Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Miami.