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Sapori Di Roma

Italy's most enjoyable food comes not from fancy starred restaurants but from home, and from little family-owned trattorias that duplicate homestyle warmth -- like this festive, wine bottle-festooned place, run by a Roman family since 1999. Pastas and seafood dishes can be overcooked on occasion, but zucchini-stuffed ravioli (in either red or white sauce; go for the rich but lighter than usual Alfredo-like white), always satisfy. The antipasto misto, from a table in front, is a must, thanks to top quality imported coldcuts (like outstanding Milanese salami) and cheeses, and wonderfully flavorful veggie preparations: eggplant and zucchini that truly taste of the grill, marinated olives, artichokes, roasted peppers, and sautéed fresh porcini mushrooms. For dessert, tiramisu, amazingly, is tasty enough to transcend any longstanding cliché.

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