At most Thai restaurants with tacked-on sushi bars, the sushi tastes like the commercially motivated afterthought it is. Here, the sushi is extraordinary. None of the fish is frozen, and the dedicated chef/owner makes two trips daily to nearby marinas for the freshest local catches. Even the simplest and most traditional sushi and sashimi are, therefore, impeccable, but most recommended are the chef's specials: Nobu-style nouvelle dishes such as miso-marinated, broiled black cod; elegantly diced tartares of toro, hamachi, and salmon; new-style sashimi, slightly seared with drizzles of hot oil and garnished with garlic purée, ginger, and sesame; and whitefish tiradito, dressed with ají chilies, cilantro, and yuzu juice. The decor is equally appealing — sophisticated, striking, and stylish, without a touch of Asian kitsch.