The second Ni.Do. shares a quaint homeyness with the original, which opened on Biscayne Boulevard near NE 79th Street in 2012 and has become a staple of the booming MiMo District. They share a few traits, but the younger sibling offers an expanded list of pastas while swapping land proteins like rib eyes and veal scaloppine for seafood. Even better are its pastas, overseen by 55-year-old Claudi Sandri, who began cooking at the age of 14 while growing up in Torino, Italy. His skill shows in a plate of saucer-size ravioli scattered with diced plum tomatoes, fried sage, and a drizzle of brown butter. Savory shreds of braised lamb shank are tucked inside, and each round is stained cornflower yellow thanks to an abundance of egg yolks in the dough. It's the kind of fare that makes you wish Ni.Do. would pop up in your neighborhood.
Servers' enthusiastic handshakes begin the moment guests step inside the antique-white dining room. Patrons are guided by the arm past oil paintings of the Italian countryside and monochromatic street scenes to peruse the offerings ...
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