The shelves are stocked to the gills with import market goods from South America, the display cases stuffed with assertively colored desserts of every stripe, and the countertop piled with sandwiches of varying shapes. Specialties of the house — other than the steamy espressos poured all day — are empanadas modeled after those from Argentina, Chile, and Venezuela. The Argentine kind are the familiar baked half-moon packets sealed with braided dough. Moises' Chilean empanada seems to be made from the same basic water/flour dough, but it's shaped like a burrito. The fillings are similar too, whether they are ham and cheese, melted cheese, or chopped beef flecked with raisins and olives and potently seasoned with cumin.
Argentines, Cubans, and Colombians, please accept my apologies. Your empanadas pale in comparison to Venezuela's beef-, bean-, and sweet-plantain-filled empanadas de pabell�n. Yes, your empanadas are delicious. Their flaky cr...
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