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Aran S Graham

Mama Jennie's

Aran S Graham
This is an authentic Italian-American joint, and that's a good thing. Take Mama Jennie's spaghetti and meatballs, please! The meatballs are a masterpiece. Tip to big eaters: Mama's meat sauce is even more concentrated than that on the spaghetti and meatballs — and spaghetti with meat sauce is all you can eat. Those not in the mood for red sauce should know that, strange though it may sound, the balls go great with what always was the one classic Italian-American white-sauce offering, spaghetti with garlic and oil (also available at Mama J's with broccoli). The veal marsala here has, besides meat, a ton of fresh mushrooms and an almost pot roast-rich thickened brown gravy. All entrees come with soup (hearty minestrone) or a hefty dinner salad with mixed lettuces, tomatoes, cucumbers, pickled peppers, brined olives, and choice of dressing (creamy Italian's good; vinaigrette with crumbled bleu cheese is as well), plus some knockout garlicky rolls.

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