The eight indoor and eight outdoor tables are nearly always taken, which has been true since this little Italian charmer opened in January 2003. And why not? La Locanda serves simple, homespun Italian fare at affordable rates. It's an oasis in a sea of glitzy, overpriced SoBe touristaurants. Hits include eggy strands of homemade "guitar pasta" — thicker, chewier, more textured than spaghetti — singing with rich notes of long-simmered lamb ragout and bright yellow fiocchetti packets packed with mixed cheeses and a touch of sweet pear smothered in smooth cream sauce. The flavorful medley of sauteed vegetables and rosemary-roasted potatoes that accompanies main courses is good too, as is fluffy tiramisu served in a bowl.
Something seemed amiss as soon as we entered Jason's at the Harrison. The vaguely Vegas room, with black-and-white tiger-skin motif and thumping club music, didn't gel with the Mediterranean/Asian/American comfort cuisine of chef Ja...
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