Gaijin Izakaya by Cake

Though it’s unclear why Phuket “Cake” Thongsodchareondee stepped away from his eponymous Wynwood Thai spot, his reemergence nearby in the space that once housed the Gang Miami gave some Miami foodies a sense of relief. Here the young chef has pivoted to Japanese cuisine, which he honed while working at Makoto in the Bal Harbour Shops and now offers in a made-for-drinking setting. Dishes arrive sizzling hot and aggressively flavored. The orbs of takoyaki crack open, revealing a rich batter studded with plenty of meaty octopus bits. The vegetable fritters called kakiage, containing razor-thin pieces of mushroom, yam, and eggplant, are encased in transparent shells without a hint of grease. That same skill works wonders on a tender chicken cutlet that for a donburi ($12) is coated in panko breadcrumbs, crisped, sliced into strips, and rested atop a steaming heap of sweet short-grain rice crowned with an egg and saut