Azul chef Joel Huff apprenticed under José Andrés, and the notion of many teeny flavors in petite portions conspiring to form a larger-than-life meal is at play here. But instead of a procession of miniature courses, the tiny taste explosives come bundled upon each plate. Too many misfire. When the idea works well, as with a smoked octopus appetizer, it's like incongruously styled musicians harmonizing in a surprisingly moving manner. When it doesn't work, as with an Alaskan king crab appetizer, it's like a variety show with jugglers, drag queens, and clowns crammed onstage at once, each clamoring for your attention. What else works: pumpkin soup with goat cheese and rock shrimp; risotto with wild mushrooms; smoked octopus; and braised Wagyu short ribs. What else misses: pan-seared branzino, duck breast, and overgarnished oysters. Dishes are pricey, excellent wines are expensive, service is inconsistent, an air of pretentiousness reigns, and valet is a ripoff at $13.Read our full review.