Although Dragon’s owners are from Canton, the food is overwhelmingly Chinese-American, which means it isn’t any more genuinely Chinese than Italian-American food is genuinely Italian; both are cuisines of adaptation. But nonauthentic isn’t a synonym for bad. Both of these immigrant-invented genres can be very tasty when prepared well, as Dragon’s dishes are. Especially good […]
Hialeah in Miami
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Sidle into this whole in the wall in East Hialeah and order what they do best: Cuban sammies. For more than a decade, Yoyito’s has been serving up pan con bistec, medianoches and croquetas to people who aren’t about to settle for anything less than the best. In this neighborhood, you better know your Cuban […]
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As diners enter Heads or Tails Seafood, they’re greeted by a smoky fish-fry aroma with an underlying scent of raw fish that emanates from the retail market located immediately to the right. The menu, printed on a paper placemat and set in front of each patron, translates into: fish, fish, and more fish, either griddled […]
Food inspires passion. Just look at what happened to that Marie Antoinette lady when she got all creative with her cake. But few forms of grub inspire as much as the hamburger. She is, after all, a fickle mistress. Handled carelessly, the burger can be disastrous. But crafted by careful and practiced hands, it can […]
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In 2017, Matthew Kuscher (Lokal, Kush, the Spillover) purchased Stephen’s, the last of Hialeah’s Jewish delis, with a mission to keep the tradition alive. He reopened with a restoration so admirable it makes you feel like you’re stepping back to 1954, when the restaurant was one of four delis on the block. Henderson “Junior” Biggers […]
La Carreta doesn’t serve the most gourmet Cuban food in Miami, but with multiple locations, it’s a convenient place to get the classics. The Little Havana location is a stand-alone building guarded by a colorful rooster statue. The menu is an extensive list of Cuban dishes such as ropa vieja ($8.95), picadillo ($6.50), and palomilla […]
Beyond the Catskills-meets-Hialeah vibe of Kush Hialeah (formerly Stephen’s Deli), owner Matt Kuscher has opened La Cocina, a 40-seat bar accessed through a corridor past the restrooms. The space is decorated in what can best be described as “Hialeah squared.” Lotto tickets and La Caja China labels serve as wallpaper and never have so many […]