Rice House of Kabob

The sparse, modern, clean-lined decor; the giant menu posted on a lofty wall; the smiling faces behind a fast-food counter — all properly imply a predominantly takeout joint, but there are plenty of seats for those who wish to dine in the bright environment. Rice and kebabs are the calling cards here and are immersed in Persian influences. Or at least immersed in sumac, which lent its sprightly astrigency to the three grilled meats featured in a Super Combo Kabob: moist cubes of chicken, juicy hunks of beef tenderloin, a long sausage-like strip of ground beef. Of course, these are also served individually, as is a well-marinated swordfish kebab.