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Best Fats for Baking Pies: Butter, Shortening & Coconut Oil Battle It Out

After inquiring about trans fats at supermarket and restaurant bakeries and receiving unsatisfactory response, I devised a blind fat taste test. I baked identical pies, with the same filling (fresh strawberries), but with different fats.I tested the following 100 percent artificial trans fat-free fats: cultured unsalted butter, palm oil shortening,...
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After inquiring about trans fats at supermarket and restaurant bakeries and receiving unsatisfactory response, I devised a blind fat taste test. I baked identical
pies, with the same filling (fresh strawberries), but with different
fats.

I tested the following 100 percent artificial trans fat-free fats: cultured unsalted butter, palm oil shortening, a mixture of butter and shortening and, lastly, coconut oil.

The tasters? Four
reluctant dinner guests, lured to my household with promises
of fresh baked goodness.

Here are the final
results, ranked:

Fourth Place: All
Butter Pie

Feedback: “Tastes
kind of like the tip of a croissant”, “Not a fan, it’s too
crispy”, “Doesn’t break or crumble like a pie crust
should.”

The Baker’s Standpoint: Even
though the flavor of the crust was delicious, this all butter pie crust baked
up too crisp. It did turn out to be the most aesthetically pleasing pie though (but, then again, maybe that’s because it was the first one I shaped).

Third Place: Coconut
Oil Pie

Related

Feedback: “This
crust is too sandy”, “The texture is almost like a shortbread, not a
flaky pie crust.”

The Baker’s Standpoint: This coconut oil pie was the fussiest to roll out and shape, because the oil kept melting, making the dough difficult to work with. This reflected on the mouth feel
as well. But coconut oil is a popular choice among many famous vegan bakeries like BabyCakes. Either they know something that I don’t, or coconut oil is better suited for cakes and icings.

Second Place: Both
Shortening & Butter Pie

Feedback: “Much
flakier, but still too crisp”, “Tender”, “Rich taste.”

Related

The Baker’s Standpoint: This
pie was much flakier than the all butter pie crust. It was very easy to shape
and roll out. It also baked up very nicely, although the all butter pie still had the smoothest appearance.

First Place: All
Shortening

Feedback: “So
flakey!”, “This is what a pie crust should feel like”,
“Best so far”, “Almost melts in your mouth.”

The Baker’s View: This
pie crust definitely had the most flakiness of them all. The texture was
perfect. However, I did miss some butter flavor (my tasters clearly didn’t though).

Related

There is definitely no need to bake with artificial trans fats. Yes, supermarket bakeries have to deal with issues of pricing and freshness, but the health concerns demonstrate that artificial trans fats should not be anywhere near a pie crust, or cake icing.

Baking without trans
fats is easy and delicious. Even though it’s completely legal to bake with
trans fats in Florida, I compel bakeries to make the switch on their very own.
If restaurant kitchens already do it, like at the Fontainebleau Miami Beach and Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, so can they.

I personally prefer to pay a
couple of extra dollars for a pastry, knowing it contains a better-for-you fat.
After all, it is better to pay the grocer, not the doctor.

Follow Emily on Twitter @EmilyCodik.

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