Eat Out Loud

A good way to measure the health of our economy is by the number of high-end restaurants that have opened or are scheduled to open around town. We’re not slumping. Already here are Baleen, Soyka, Ortanique, Coco Pazzo, Beatlenut, the News Room, and a second Grillfish; on the way should…

Best Island Fares

When I heard Norma’s on the Beach was planning a sequel in Coral Gables, I wasn’t excited about the prospect of two solid Caribbean restaurants in town; I was upset. Let me explain. I’ve been a huge fan of the funky Lincoln Road eatery since it opened. Even when I’m…

The Kitchen God’s Choice

The waitstaff at By Sarah Cafe & Catering, located on Biscayne Boulevard in North Miami, stiffens visibly when the light contemporary jazz (think Chuck Mangione) playing on the radio is interrupted by commercials. One particular advertisement clearly bugged the hell out of ’em. “Run by chefs. That explains our food,”…

Game Is Wild, Price Is High

Lovers of Las Vegas and habitués of the Bahamas will instantly recognize the lobby of the two-month-old Miccosukee Resort & Convention Center: Clanging bells, security guards, and row after row of video gaming machines announce the Miccosukees’ intent to make their new gambling complex state of the art. Denizens of…

Close Thais to Sushi

Shrimp tempura $12.95

Sautéed chicken with chili paste $13.95

Whole snapper $18.95

Sushi boat (for two) $38.00

Thai sticks $2.85

Promises, Promises

Pasta is a possibility again on Le Jeune Road, just off South Dixie Highway, at the spot formerly occupied by Tutti’s. The owners of Pazzia, which opened this past December, haven’t tinkered with the place much. There’s still a large rectangular bar in the center of the space serving as…

Hardly a Sinker

I used to frequent a fantastic little French bistro on New York’s Upper East Side, but I would have eaten there even more often if the name weren’t so ridiculous. You try inviting a date to a place called Voulez Vous. Remember “Voulez vous couchez avec moi ces soir?” Ugh…

Dine by Your Sign

Having a hard time deciding where to dine? Not sure what you want to eat tonight? Try turning to your sign. It gives dining under the stars a whole new meaning. Astrologer and columnist Sydney Omarr, along with deceased chef Mike Roy, put together a cookbook of culinary constellations, Cooking…

Welcome to the Monkey House

One day several years ago I answered the phone on the first ring, as is my habit because the darn thing sits right next to my computer. “Give me room 38,” a woman said. “Sorry, I think you have the wrong number,” I replied to the cheeky caller. “Bullshit!” she…

Halvah Turkish Bite

Turkey was where Cleopatra met Antony and the Trojan horse came to fetch Helen of Troy; it was the birthplace of Abraham and St. Paul and the capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. But most of us know little about this nation, and even less about its food, which…

Take in Indian

The gray season has begun. Those dark skies and blustery storms make an evening out seem less appetizing. It’s time to stay in the house — better yet, to stay in bed, and catch up on movies and devour trashy novels. Still, despite the deluge one recent Saturday night, I…

Dish out Desire

Good literature may not necessarily change your life, but it can revolutionize the way you feel about certain foodstuffs. For instance after reading Banana Yoshimoto’s Kitchen, a Japanese novella about death, transvestitism, and cooking school, I came away not with a new understanding of love and grief, but with a…

Image Isn’t Everything

In the June issue of Vogue, food writer Jeffrey Steingarten, fed up with snooty maitre d’s and perpetual busy signals, decides to “not make one reservation for the entire week. I will just show up.” So he does, and has some moderate success at good New York City eateries, winding…

Mexican to Dine For

La Gloria is, for moviegoers, the most significant Mexican import since Like Water for Chocolate. That’s because this new taqueria is located smack-dab in the midst of Coconut Grove’s cineplexes, offering a transcendent alternative to mall-land’s predictable fare. Mexican restaurants used to be just as predictable, but in recent years…

Cafe of the Day

Another South Beach restaurant. Opened just under six months ago in the nether regions of South Beach by some of the owners of The Strand’s successful Living Room, Cafe Tabac might be just another pretty cafe. It’s as stylish as Joia, as moderately priced as Big Pink across the street,…

Chefs Who Stick to Us

If I could sum up Miami in one word, it would be “transient.” The good weather attracts drifters. Folks don’t settle in Miami, they merely reside for a time. Some people are only here to party on South Beach before getting down to the serious business of making a living…

Funky Tuna

It’s probably me, but I just don’t get Fish 54. The seafood restaurant opened about three months ago in the Loehmann’s Fashion Island space formerly occupied by Fish, a high-end eatery run by the Nemo and Big Pink folks, Myles Chefetz and Michael Schwartz. The pair had invested a cool…

Coup de Foie Gras

The Holy Trinity of gastronomic delicacies comes down to this: the salted fish eggs of a pregnant sturgeon, goose livers that have been grossly force-fed, and a subterranean fungus. If you haven’t developed an appreciation for caviar, foie gras, and truffles, you might think this is one giant joke being…

Talk About Delicious

Europeans like to gripe about a lot of things in America. Especially about dining out, about how all those waiters hover at your table chattering about nothing. They’d be driven right back across the Atlantic after eating at Sweet Donna’s Country Store, where we were greeted by not one, but…

Cantina Cuisine Weighs In

Utter the phrase “food by the pound” and any self-respecting gourmet will run for the hills, (okay, the swamps). Say it to a gourmand, and you’ll witness a different reaction completely; most likely a stampede toward the nearest eatery offering comida por libra. What’s the difference? A gourmet is someone…

Prayer Ribs

Sometimes my relationships with restaurants are like the ones I have with my kid and husband. They require lots of work and involve those interminable growing pains, but both can bring great pleasure on a good day. That’s kind of the way I feel about Bishop’s. This six-month-old Southern-cuisine restaurant…

To Have and Have Haas

Does the difference between success and failure in the restaurant world boil down to those who have versus those who have not? Those who have, after all, are able to afford an experienced management team and name chef to come up with clever menus and slick modi operandi. They can…