Greek restaurants get a bad rap. They're often depicted as depressing, neon-lit diners or kitschy eateries with belly dancing and plate breaking. But spend the summer on one of the Greek islands and you'll likely take your evening meal in a small tavern gently lit by candles. If you want that kind of experience, you could either hop a flight to Athens and then take a ferry to Santorini, or you could simply drive to Kouzina. This midtown spot re-creates an evening in the Greek isles — beautiful people drink wine and laugh as they feast on saganaki ($9) and steamed mussels in white wine ($12). Many items are imported from Greece — olive oil, spices, yogurt (not the John Stamos kind either). A handy sign offers a few simple Greek words and phrases, one of them being kali orexi, which means "enjoy your meal." At Kouzina (which, by the way, means "kitchen"), you will enjoy — without a single plate having to lie broken on the floor to prove it.