The finest seafood in Miami does not arrive on a porcelain plate in some glimmering South Beach dining room. It's served fresh and spicy under Las Delicias Peruanas' flickering fluorescent lights. This place might look a bit like a Third-World dive bar, nearly hidden in a Soviet-style gray building in Wynwood. But the food is first-class. Of course, as in any good seafood joint, you can't go wrong with the ceviche. Las Delicias serves it half a dozen ways — fish, shrimp, octopus, mixed shellfish, and various combinations — all of them doused in tart, spicy sauce. The price for a large plate is $11.99 to $13.99. For an extra $6, you can get the ceviche mixto tricolor — a giant, decorative, and tasty mélange of sea creatures served with three spicy salsas. Las Delicias is open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. For ordering purposes, it helps to speak Spanish. We recommend Friday and Saturday nights, when you can slug Coronitas and sing karaoke as you recover from overindulging in ceviche.