The 900 Club

In 1991 Hectór Rolotti opened a modest little café in New York City called Novecento Soho. A few years later he instituted a more extensive bistro menu there, and since that time has added four more Novecentos in Argentina and Uruguay. Two months ago the sixth branch premiered on Alton…

New Level Of Dining

As the original supervising architect of Coral Gables, Phineas Paist established a board of review whose approval was required for any new construction or remodeling. That board is still in place today, but somehow The Village of Merrick Park shopping complex slipped past Paist’s precept, and sprawls luxuriously across quite…

Get Sauced

The better a barbecue sauce, the more likely you’ll end up with it all over your hands, says a Southern rule of thumb. If it’s an extremely good sauce, you’ll likely find some smeared around your mouth, giving you that inimitable I-applied-lipstick-while-drunk look. Dirty hands and messy mouths occur because…

Med, White, & Blue

It takes more than some gallons of blue paint and some gallons of white to make a Greek restaurant look authentic; you also need murals on the walls, preferably of white sun-bleached domes against blue ocean waters. A little of that tinkly Greek music doesn’t hurt either. Ouzo’s Greek Taverna…

I Spy

Restaurant reviewers and spies have a lot in common. We work covertly, report our findings, and get to attend the occasional cocktail party. True, the life of a spy is more important, exciting, and rewarding, but, on the other hand, we eat better. This past week I spied on the…

Pacific Atlantic

When Michael Schwartz jumped ship from Nemo last summer, this town’s foodies practically choked on their sushi in shock. After all, as co-owner and executive chef, Schwartz helped make that establishment a modern-day dining landmark on the Beach, while also successfully steering nearby sisters Shoji Sushi and Big Pink. Local…

A Frank Philosophy

Chicagoans overwork their hot dogs with relish, onions, tomatoes, peppers, pickles, mustard, and celery salt. New Yorkers are more circumspect in sticking to mustard and either sauerkraut or sautéed onions. Those in Salt Lake no doubt prefer their frankfurters with mayo, but we won’t go there. Ever. Point is, our…

Bulli For Broche

The 1990s were a heady time for the culinary stars in this town, as the creative talents of New Worlders, Pacific Rimmers, Nuevo Latinos, Mango Gangers, et al., catapulted South Florida onto the nation’s culinary map. Champagne corks flew, flashbulbs popped, puffy personality pieces appeared, heralding the unique fusion of…

Roti-Rooter

There are three key components to Christine’s Roti Shop: 1) Christine. As you enter the small shop you may see a woman busily rolling out balls of roti dough. This is Christine Gouveia, from British Guyana. She is perpetually amicable, always eager to chat, and judging from all the people…

Slight In Shining Armor

The bright, minimalist, metallic-cool interior of Café 71 stands out in this grim, brown Biscayne block like a comic strip plunked smack-dab in the middle of a James Joyce book. Motorists going by the corner of 71st Street look over at the contemporary cafe with disbelief in their eyes: What’s…

Open Haus

South Beach’s favorite (and only) Austrian/German pub and eatery, formerly a teeny, cavernous room on Alton Road and Ninth Street, is now housed in a far roomier space two blocks north, just up the street from Wild Oats Market. Most everything else about Dab Haus remains the same — the…

Barton Gee!

Those who know of Barton Gerald Weiss’s reputation as the event impresario with an inclination for multisensory, over-the-top theatrics will probably be surprised by the subtle brown and bronze earth tones that swathe the tasteful, relatively restrained décor of Barton G the Restaurant. I say “relatively” because the 155-seat dining…

Baby Food For Angels

I have to admit my appreciation for Arab culture skyrocketed when I discovered that they invented sorbet. It’s true — the Chinese taught them how to make sweet syrup from puréed fruit, and the Arabs took this knowledge to Sicily, combined these syrups with snow from Mount Etna, and called…

Local Joint Lights Up

One of the world’s less-pleasant sounds is the dismissive grunt of a New Yorker as he or she proclaims the pizza in some part of America to be an inedible parody of the real thing that they, thank God, are privy to in their great city. It’s not that this…

Diner Might

What the world needs now is love sweet love, but what Miami Beach needs is affordable restaurants. The recently opened Alton Road Café fits the inexpensive bill, though it’s more diner, or coffee shop, than restaurant or café. The space was previously an IHOP (attached to the 41st Street Howard…

The Top Texan

You wouldn’t think that giving diners what they want would be a particularly unique strategy for operating a restaurant. Even those with no experience in the hospitality field would no doubt assume that pleasing customers is something every potential restaurateur would seriously focus upon from day one. Yet this apparently…

Heavy Hop Fest

Here we are on the cusp of November, and I’m just getting around to writing about Oktoberfest. Very tardy on my part — after all, we know that Oktoberfest takes place in September. What’s that? You thought it took place in October? Jeez — we better start from the beginning…

Cheesecake Survivor

You can’t really fault the Cheesecake Factory people if, over the years, they’ve developed a bemused attitude while the front window of their popular eatery in the Aventura Mall food court has intermittently reflected the changing of restaurant signs in the space across the way. Soyka tried a News Café…

Lox, Stock, & Bagel

“Mornin’ General,” my mostly African-American co-workers would say as I’d drag myself through the doors of Bagel World in Queens, New York, at 5:30 a.m. The nickname had nothing to do with any military bearing or bulldog attitude on my part; when I was first introduced one of the guys…

Like Rigatoni For Roti

I could blame Zagat for my heading to Caffe Vialetto with visions of haute conch and upscale callaloo in my head, but I’m too big for that. It’s true the dining guide ranks the restaurant number three in the “Top Caribbean” category, yet while I had never been to, or…

Mr. Pita Loco

Pita Loca is a place I usually frequent alone, even when my wife comes along. She pretends she doesn’t know me. She’ll stand a few feet away, as if she’s a separate customer, when I order my hummus sandwich to go. It works like this: The man behind the counter…