Deli Dinner Delights

Hit Bagels and Company on any given morning, at any given moment, and you’ll find yourself waiting on line at the counter or for a table. Weekends aside, this popular neighborhood spot is never not thronged with northern Miami-Dade residents thrumming fingers impatiently for toasted bialys with whitefish salad, homemade…

In Pursuit of the Perfect Pizza

The parameters that guide the making of a perfect pizza are pretty clear. A pie must have a good crust, whether it be thick or thin; vibrant sauce, whether it be red or white; and tasty toppings, whether they be traditional (pepperoni) or neo (chili peppers). In that respect, Pizza…

Lunch Will Keep Us Together

Birthdays are important in the restaurant business. Celebrating your first full year signals that you have a chance of succeeding in the long term. Making it to five means the community has accepted you. A decade? You’re good to go. But some folks in the restaurant industry mark a different…

Restaurant Chefs Are Doing It for Themselves

To paraphrase an old folk song: Where have all the pastry chefs gone? A decade ago, having a pastry chef on staff at a South Florida restaurant was both de rigueur and a badge of honor. It implied that here, at least, dessert was a special enough course to be…

Side Dish

Of course there was an elephant standing outside the new Fifteen O One Barton G., twirling rings on her trunk and trumpeting on command, a kind of consolation prize for those unable to score wristbands to enter the event impresario’s latest coup: a refurbished catering hall and live-music venue formerly…

Blink and Ye Might Miss It

In its old location, as an adjunct to the now-defunct Café Del Mar on Biscayne Boulevard and NE 86th Street in Miami, Ye Olde Boston Fish Market was somewhat visible — as in, not invisible. It was hard to angle your car into the parking lot, yes. And the storefront…

Don’t Tempt Me, Argentina

Sure, there’s meat aplenty to be found at this Argentine gourmet market and café, which has a location in Aventura only several months old and another, newly opened, in the Village of Merrick Park in Coral Gables. You can order garlicky, thinly sliced matambre (roasted and rolled flank steak stuffed…

Mad for the Cow

I had it as a chopped steak at Barton G., lying on a pillowy mattress of hash browns and smothered with mushrooms. I sampled it as short ribs during the most recent Chaine des Rotisseurs dinner at the Loews Hotel, braised and falling off the bone. And again at the…

Side Dish

In gastronomy, there are numerous prestigious awards, but none comes close to the celebrated status of being inducted in the “Choucroute Halles of Fame,” as the Coral Gables-based national magazine The Wine News founder and publisher Tom E. Smith recently discovered. Brasserie Les Halles owner Philippe Lajaunie established the annual…

Prima Pastabilities

What a difference a decade makes. In 1993 Café Prima Pasta was a 28-seat noodle joint in a dilapidated mid-Miami Beach neighborhood, and owner Gerardo Cea was a first-time restaurateur who seemed to be capitalizing on the success of his cousin-in-law Eloy Roy, who had recently made a splash with…

Polly Doesn’t Want a Cracker

Three ways to draw unwelcome attention to yourself at Parrot Jungle: Climb the monkey tower, yelling, “I am king of the primate world!” Teach the parrots to squawk, “Come here, little girl. Want some candy?” or simply walk around the exhibits with a young child firmly clasped in one hand…

Chow Down Under

Don’t believe Disney or the Internet — it’s really not such a small world after all. If it were, surely in my critical life I would have tasted bunya nuts, wattle seeds, bush tomatoes, and the like more recently than this past week. Of course I could have experienced these…

Side Dish

A new year and it’s new times at New Times. If you skipped Lee Klein’s review this week, allow me to be the first to tell you: The esteemed Mr. Klein has left the building. But not the corporation — he’s taking on my erstwhile territory of Broward and Palm…

Roe Rage

The blare of horns cut like sunlight through smog into the conversation I was having via cell phone. “Where are you?” asked the chef at the other end of the line. “In New York, taking a cab from JFK to Manhattan,” I replied. “What are you doing there?” “Having lunch.”…

Lessons in Latkes

If you’ve been looking for latkes in all the wrong places, it’s too bad you didn’t visit my daughter’s classroom about a week ago. That’s when I was making some of the worst examples possible in the most unlikely venue imaginable. Trust me, I didn’t volunteer for the job. I’m…

Inspiration, Activity at Every Turn

I can’t quite decide whether Broward and Palm Beach counties really have launched more exciting, dining-destination places over the last couple of years, or if the chefs and restaurateurs in the great white north of South Florida have finally become as publicity-wise as their more worldly Miami-Dade counterparts. After reviewing…