Dough. Mozzarella. Onions. Oregano. The ingredients required to make one of Argentina’s regional specialties are almost as simple as its origins. Derived from Italy’s focaccia, then made entirely Argentine with the addition of melted mozzarella and charred onions, this South American delicacy isn’t readily available around Miami. Searching it out, though, is worth the trouble.
“It’s a pizza that you won’t find in just any corner of the world,” says Maria Teresa Guarracino, owner of North Miami’s Tatore (formerly known as Bertoni). “It’s a specialty that we adapted in Argentina, because for us, we like it with a lot of onions and, sometimes, even stuffed with cheese too.”
Fugazzeta and fugazza can often get confused, the former more elaborate and stuffed, the latter traditionally containing just four or five ingredients. Tatore offers both. The simpler of the two is known as fugazzeta, topped with onions, mozzarella, and a bit of Parmesan. The more elaborate, known there as a stuffed fugazzeta or "fugazzeta rellena," comes packed with a layer of extra cheese and some ham. The faint of heart be warned.
This regional specialty is most readily found in Argentine restaurants that specialize in brick-oven cooking. However, in Kendall, Italian pizzeria Di Papa’s serves a tantalizing version as well.
"The special thing about fugazzeta is that it doesn’t have tomato sauce,” Jose Anil, a waiter at Di Papa’s, says enthusiastically. "In this neighborhood, it’s very popular. I recommend the fugazzeta all the time.” Italian or Argentine, the results are spectacular either way.
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For beach dwellers who’d like a full stomach and onion breath, fear not. A couple of spots in Miami Beach serve fugazzeta as well. At Baires Grill, on Lincoln Road at Alton, they do a personal-size happy-hour version of the dish with roasted chicken. Around the corner at Piola, an Argentine pizza chain that’s making its mark in South Florida, they do a traditional version of the pie.
No matter where you get your onion-lover’s pie, be sure to bring breath mints. Even roasted and sweet, the onions still pack a kick, especially when paired with oregano.