Klima is the latest Spanish restaurant to plant its flag on Miami's shores. The Catalan cuisine from the Barcelona-bred leadership team revolves around the Josper oven, a hybrid grill/oven/broiler that servers promise imparts the best of the three on young chicken, thick steaks, and slabs of pork ribs. But the broiler's sear is missing from a thick-cut New York strip that arrives a perfect medium. Similarly, many dishes lack one simple key ingredient that would set them apart from the bulk of the Spanish cuisine across the city. Cloud-like whipped potatoes demand a touch of salt; the skin of a perfectly cooked piece of red snapper should be crisp, not flabby. Klima has potential but could use a temperature adjustment.
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