By David Minsky
By Jen Mangham
By Bill Wisser
By Laine Doss
By Bill Wisser
By Dana De Greff
By Laine Doss
By Zachary Fagenson
To be honest, dancing and dining commingle only from 9:30 or 10:00 p.m. on. Before then, when the music is softer and lighting effects kept to a minimum (it's so dark that to read the menu you first have to move it perilously close to the tabletop candle), KISS is committed to being a restaurant serving some seriously good cuts of meat. Problem is, while one could be kind and say the ambiance is a whimsical alternative to customarily clubby steak houses, it seems totally out of whack with the excellent cuisine -- in fact I dare say this is the best food you'll ever eat in a room this tacky.
A basket of KISS's lip-smacking breads was an omen of good things to come: dark brown, salted pretzel rolls; soft, almost cakelike wedges of brioche; and mini corn muffins. More cornbread, this time presented as thin, waferlike slices, accompanied a starter of eight succulently smoked pork back ribs glazed with a sweet, tangy, and spicy cardamom barbecue sauce. An all-American red-and-white coleslaw rounded out the plate, which you may want to share -- this is a lot of food for one person to start with, especially in light of the prodigious meals that follow. A lighter starter choice would be "fire-roasted" West Coast oysters, five bivalves slightly warmed and tastily topped in their shells with snippets of fresh baby artichokes, olives, and lemon butter.
The salad selection is stacked with vertical constructions, like a "deck" of heirloom tomatoes, red onions, and blue cheese; and a "tower" of lobster, avocado, roasted peppers, yellow tomatoes, and olives. We dug into a more down-to-earth spinach salad, the leaves warmed, wilted, and mouthwateringly permeated with the crunch and sizzle of a full-flavored apple-bacon dressing. Sweet, teeny croutons of chewy gingerbread were flecked throughout the greens, the same gingerbread layered in a terrine with blue cheese, two slices of which are served on the side. The tastes were so well-balanced and so delicious, this should serve as the prototype to which all future spinach salads are compared.
No writeup of KISS has neglected to mention its "$40 steaks," but it isn't fair to compare these heftily portioned, dry-aged prime meats with the punier, less flavorful, less tender, wet-aged meats (meaning sealed with their bloody juices and packed tightly in plastic) that are served at all but the top steak houses and a few of our finer restaurants. These inferior steaks usually run about $28 to $36 -- now that's overpriced. One bite into KISS's garlic-and-chili-marinated fourteen-ounce New York strip and you'll recognize its value, the spiced crust intensely seared by charbroiling, the texture within practically melting onto the plate. This steak would have been delicious naked, but smoky chipotle demi-glace makes for an inarguably alluring dressing.
A center cut of breaded, pan-roasted veal chop was similarly thick and delectable, and like many of the dishes here follows the code of the acronymic KISS: Keep It Simple, Stupid, as in a mustard-imbued jus, crisply sautéed haricots verts, and a roasted tomato. Slow-roasted prime rib for two, the signature slab of beef, comes sliced and served with loads of roasted vegetables and three dipping sauces; this can easily serve as a meal for three. A full-bodied red wine from KISS's short, smart, and pricey list would match this magnum of meat nicely -- bottles start at $45. Most everything is pricey here, though there are exceptions, one being half of an intensely smoke-roasted Bell & Evans chicken with cubes of root vegetables, a fresh artichoke heart, and a deep brown thyme-flecked jus for just $22.95.
One difference between KISS and an average steak house is that main courses come with vegetables -- and we're not talking creamed spinach. A plate of ancho-crusted tuna steak looked like a veritable garden patch with braised endive, roasted tomato, baby zucchini, baby carrots, patty pan squash, and cremini mushroom caps, each carefully seasoned and prepared to perfection. The moderate portion of tuna was likewise cooked just right, the sweet and sourness of a fig-and-grapefruit marmalade enhancing the fish to such a remarkable degree that the omnipresent sesame-soy treatments suddenly seemed wrong-headed.
Starches do cost extra. At $8.95 lobster-corn fritters were the most expensive -- and the worst. The three dry fritters were the size of golf balls, and of only slightly less weight and density. An undersize portion of "spicy house-made" fries wasn't great either -- stick with steak-house-style hash browns or lyonnaiselike potato and onions.