Buenos Aires' Recoleta neighborhood is studded with ritzy hotels, luxury leather accessory shops, and frantic dog-walkers who trudge along its many sloped cobblestone streets. Across the tony area in Argentina's capital are many restaurants that peddle the country's meat-centric epicurean fare. There are empanadas, ñoquis in cream sauce, lots of ojo de bife, and plenty of Malbec. Service is provided by one or two proud waiters — the kind of porteños who sneer when chicken isn't pronounced posho (a sound that replicates air escaping a tire) or an asado appetizer is ordered without chinchulines (small intestines of typically beef or pig). Read the
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