Closer Look: Tongue & Cheek in South Beach

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Roasted Branzino
Jamie DeRosa, a portly 40-year-old with spiky brown hair and a toothy grin, made a name for himself with, among other things, the pea soup, a smooth purée of fresh peas, cream, and leeks. When you ordered the dish, a bowl arrived topped with house-made lime marshmallows, peppercorns, and little pea tendrils. A waiter poured the emerald broth from a pitcher into a tiny basin. It was theatrical and amusing.

If you sampled this dish at Tudor House, you will definitely recognize it on Washington Avenue at Tongue & Cheek — DeRosa's latest venture, which opened in April. The setting is a study in contrasts. Rather than the Dream's tourist-congested Collins Avenue location, this restaurant thrives in a narrow building in South Beach's South of Fifth neighborhood. And DeRosa isn't working for celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian as he was at Tudor House. Instead, he's joined at the laid-back location by Michael Reginbogin, who was director of food and beverage operations at the Dream.

Read the full review of Tongue & Cheek in South Beach.