Restaurant Reviews

Vegan Chefs, Dreaming of Success, Emerge in Miami

Keith Kalmanowicz is a busy guy.

In the past two hours, he's petted a black emu, chatted up a Jamaican medicine man, shown me a composting toilet, and confessed that he's fed a chubby pig named Shuffles perhaps too much brioche. Sitting on a bench at Earth N' Us Farm in Little Haiti on a sultry Wednesday afternoon, Kalmanowicz has talked for an hour nonstop. Splashes of sweat soak his pink bandanna, which he wears beneath a Panama hat.

"A lot of people cook vegan food that isn't made for flavor," he says, petting his long blond beard like a cat. "So when I go out to eat at those restaurants, I'm just like, 'This food sucks, man. There are no good vegan restaurants in Miami.' "

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Emily Codik