But more memorable is the escabeche that tops other dishes. Sliced tomatoes and onions brighten thick slabs of pan-seared fish and slow-roasted pork. It's like a home cook's signature mojo -- only fancier and crowning a $20 plate.
Horacio Rivadero is the man behind this fusion. He once split his time between two kitchens -- working as the executive chef for the Dining Room and OLA at the Sanctuary Hotel. At the latter, he served under Doug Rodriguez, who's known as the father of Nuevo Latino cuisine. Then, last summer, the Dining Room closed and, shortly thereafter, Rivadero left OLA. He resurfaced at this new restaurant in October.
Here, Rodriguez's Nuevo Latino cuisine is tangled with Rivadero's international approach, which toys with the likes of farro, pickles, and quail eggs.