For Miami, Nuevo Latino cuisine is a comfort food of sorts. Chefs take the ingredients we know -- the stuff we grew up on -- and cook them in ways that would make our mamas proud. Once mashed into our baby food, malanga is now deep-fried, shaped into shells, and piled with togarashi and raw tuna. Yuca swims in truffle honey, ceviche is cooled by citrus sorbet, and black trumpet mushrooms are made into chimichurri. What's worn becomes new again, like a re-framed family photograph.
The District is the latest Miami restaurant to peddle these dishes, though it also identifies with contemporary pan-American cuisine. And indeed, at this Buena Vista newcomer, you can taste a bit of California. Brussels sprouts are shredded, glazed with a fig balsamic vinegar, and finished with dried cranberries and toasted pinenuts. It is lovely, balanced with a sweet-and-sour smack that tickles the tongue.