Restaurant Reviews

Sneak Review: Palme d'Or

A teeny sneak preview of the New Times restaurant review for next week.

Beef "effilochée" was effing delicious. The cylindrical castle of shredded shank meat gets braised for seven hours and crowned with organic micro sprouts sprayed with truffle vinaigrette. Surrounding the meat are concentric moats of red wine reduction sauce and potato mousseline -- the latter so soft as to seemingly lack molecular structure. A disk of duck is plated in similar fashion, the shredded confit meat in the center of the plate encircled by morels, asparagus, and potato mousseline and encased in a crystalline-thin phyllo wrap -- an effectively lighter substitute for the classic French pastry dough that Ruiz must have utilized in his younger days.  

Palme d'Or, Biltmore Hotel 1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables;  305-445-1926

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Miami New Times' restaurant reviewer for the past decade, and the world's indisputable master of disguise.
Contact: Lee Klein