Newcomers and Some Oldies Shine at Iron Fork 2009: Critchley Victorious, Whisk and Others Raise the Bar

Keep New Times Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Miami and help keep the future of New Times free.

The Presidente flowed as Chef John Critchley laid the culinary smackdown on Giancarla Bodoni for the 2009 Iron Fork title. Critchley is on a winning streak, with his seafood-celebrating Area 31 having been recently named one of Esquire magazine's best new restaurants this year.

Our focus, however, was the side show -- edible offerings of 40 South Florida restaurants through which crowds mowed.  Here are some highlights:

- Whisk's fall-off-the-bone pork with golden honey cider barbecue sauce on a bed of slaw with cornbread cube was a balanced bite. Rumor has it brother-sister owners, Brendan and Kristin Connor, are scouting for bigger digs, still in Coral Gables. We approve, as long as they find a way to maintain the restaurant's intimate charm.

- Urbanite Bistro's bite of deer was upstaged by its tuna, masago, and

seaweed salad on crisp, asymmetrical wonton shards, both in presentation and flavor. This seconds-worthy bite was enough to encourage us to plan a visit to its Wynwood home.

- It was a pleasure to catch up with chef Sean Brasel, who manned his Meat Market booth with class and panache, serving up tender slices of perfectly cooked skirt steak on a bed of frisée. Brasel will joing chefs Clay Conley, Michael Bloise, and Michael Schwartz at the January 10 Dinner in Paradise at Paradise Farms in Homestead.

- Managing the sweetness of tropical fruit-based sauces is no easy feat, so we were impressed by MiMo's Le Café and its nuggets of a halibut-style fish lightly dressed in mango.

- Gimme some more goat! South Beach Haitian mainstay Tap Tap might have scored our favorite dish of the night with its spicy goat, served with a smile by general manager Gary Sanon-Jules. Its finger-licking bone-on bites left lips tingling from a habanero-laced vinegar sauce.

- Gordon Biersch showed up on its best behavior, labeling its Kobe burgers "American."  What a difference some newsprint makes.

Keep Miami New Times Free... Since we started Miami New Times, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Miami, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Miami with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Miami.


Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Miami.