Dig the Fresh Truffle Menu at the Grill at the Setai

For someone weaned on truffle oil, eating a fresh truffle must elicit the same wow factor as that of someone weaned on George Lucas films viewing Avatar in 3-D. Meaning: Different world, baby, different world entirely.
The Grill at the Setai reopened last month with a new look and a new menu of Mediterranean-influenced small plates. Now through the end of truffle season (late February), the Grill is offering a seven-course, tapas-style black truffle menu. Plates will include tantalizing teamings such as truffle foie gras with confit duck, haricot verts, mache, and truffle vinaigrette; black truffle risotto, Parmesan foam, and white truffle ice cream; a surf-and-turf of Kobe tenderloin and langoustine with black and white truffles; and dessert of tart tatin with green apple sorbet and black truffle crème fraîche.

Which leads us to ask: Is Jonathan Wright one of our most underrated chefs? We think so, or else we wouldn't be saying the cost of $360 per couple, with all of those truffles involved, might be something of a bargain. An alternative, however, is to order from the à la carte menu and get fresh truffles added for $6.50 per gram (black) or $21 per gram (white). Either way, get these suckers while you can -- and no 3-D glasses are needed for the spectacular effects.

The Grill at the Setai, 2001 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; 305-520-6400.

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