Crock of Gibraltar

While perusing Paula's roundup on Easter specials yesterday morning, I couldn't help but notice the pricing strategies pursued by the various restaurants. For instance, at Essencia you can enjoy organic selections cooked up by one of Miami's really talented veteran chefs, Frank Jeanetti -- plus  a prosecco or mimosa -- for a friendly $39. Or you can enjoy brunch at Michy's, with a drink, for $48 -- we're talking about cuisine presented by Michelle Bernstein, so this price ain't bad either. Brunch will cost $55 at Eos, but that includes roasted whole lamb, baby pig, and an amazing buffet spread. Area 31 is likewise providing an extensive layout -- with cocktails -- for $65. These last two brunches are undoubtedly expensive, but Eos and Area 31, as well as its chefs, have proven themselves with the locals, and are considered among our very finest hotel dining establishments. Yet Gibraltar, a brand new restaurant with no track record whatsoever in these parts, is charging $75 -- and this doesn't even include drinks. Have a few children, do you? If they're five-to-twelve years old, that'll be an $35 extra bucks for each -- also more expensive than the competition. That's $35 for a little person with a little stomach likely selecting only those items from the buffet that most resemble pizza or hot dogs. Gouging kids on Easter Sunday. Nice.

Yeah, sure, the Grove Isle property offers a view like no other, and its chef seems to be the real deal. But I'm so over greedy gastro-Enrons like Gibraltar that seek to suck every possible penny from people just because they can. Baleen made the same mistake.

KEEP MIAMI NEW TIMES FREE... Since we started Miami New Times, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Miami, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Miami New Times' restaurant reviewer for the past decade, and the world's indisputable master of disguise.
Contact: Lee Klein