4

Bread + Butter: Sino-Cuban Pan Con Lechon and a Secret Dining Room

^
Keep New Times Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Miami and help keep the future of New Times free.

After several months of planning what turned into two separate restaurants Alberto Cabrera, formerly of Karu & Y and The Local Craft Food and Drink, quietly opened Bread + Butter Counter (Pan con Mantequilla) about two weeks ago toward the west end of Miracle Mile.

The restaurant's décor and menu screamed Cuban gastropub. Black-and-white portraits of people and scenes from Cuba a half-century ago adorned one all-black wall. There was no shortage of subway tile, reclaimed wood, or industrial metal and ducting running along the walls and ceiling. Butcher paper placemats stamped with the restaurant's logo and fresh white roses in small mason jars were interspersed along a seating counter and about a dozen tables, all of which were spoken for on a Saturday night.

Cabrera said he's making small daily changes to the one-page menu. As expected it's designed for sharing with a few entrée-sized plates available each night. The hours have been fluid, but at the moment it's open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday and dinner on Saturday. Sunday brunch is to start once football season gets back into swing.

We sampled the Pan con Lechon ($5 per piece), which was slow-roasted shredded pork shoulder stuffed inside a steamed Chinese bao bun topped with piquant mojo sauce and pickled garlic.

Tamal en Casuela ($14) was a small dish of sweet Florida corn pudding topped with smoky braised oxtail and a sunnyside-up egg. Obviously Cabrera already had brunch on the brain.

Coca de Camaron ($12) brought a crispy, wafer-thin flatbread topped with muted enchilada sauce, shrimp, sliced red onion, fried green plantains and smoked Idiazabal cheese.

While these items might no longer be offered if and when you choose to stop by there was also crispy barbecue chicken skins with yucca and green onion mojo, "fried rice" with cuttlefish, shrimp, smoked ham and whipped eggs. The "Frita China" was Cabrera's take on a Cuban frita with Napa Cabbage kimchi, cilantro, onion and Sriracha ketchup is likely to stick around.

His original plan after leaving The Local was the open a high-end frita shop. Cabrera said he found a space in Kendall, but couldn't find the right business partner.

"The project's been developed to the point where it's ready to go," he said. The "problem with it was I didn't want to sell the whole concept away and give up too much ownership."

Finally he told us there's additional space behind the main room and kitchen where he plans to do weekly chef's table dinners once the main operation is running smoothly.

It's "going to be a little different than what we're doing in the front of the house," Cabrera said, and "maybe eventually do some joint dinners with some chefs."

Follow Short Order on Facebook, on Twitter @Short_Order, and Instagram @ShortOrder.

For more follow Zach on Twitter @ZachIsWeird.

Keep Miami New Times Free... Since we started Miami New Times, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Miami, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Miami with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Miami.

 

Join the New Times community and help support independent local journalism in Miami.