Columns

At Revamped Vagabond, Chef Alex Chang Makes His Mark

The chapulines are boiled, sun-dried, and roasted in garlic and chilies before they're vacuum-packed and sent north from Oaxaca. Then these grasshopper slivers are tossed in a pan with citrusy Sichuan peppercorns and topped with cilantro and lime. Broken into pieces and served with peanuts and almonds, the bug bits are mostly innocuous and unidentifiable. They add some crunch and tartness to the little snack and double as a kind of Boy Scout badge for food enthusiasts.

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Zachary Fagenson became the New Times Broward-Palm Beach restaurant critic in 2012 before taking up the post for Miami in 2014. He also works as a correspondent for Reuters.
Contact: Zachary Fagenson