Restaurant Reviews

A New Altitude

Over dinner one night, my husband and I talked about how we'd divide our possessions if we got divorced. (Nothing like a pessimist planning for the future.) I'd just read a little snippet about a restaurateur and his wife who split up: She kept the restaurant; he opened a new one a few blocks away. Within months both eateries failed.

Actually, this scenario is not uncommon. As far as I can see, when partners dissolve their relationship, there are two ways to go: Either the couple-to-not-be sells the joint property and divides the proceeds, or one party gets real estate and the other gets screwed. If it ever comes to that, my hubby and I vowed, we'll be decent to each other: He can have the orange tabby and the gray cat, and I'll keep the black one and the calico. We might fight over the fifth cat, the feral tortoiseshell who won't come out from under the bed, but unless she abandons her post, she'll most likely be sold with the house.

A business partnership, so similar to a marriage, can terminate civilly. It helps, of course, if the assets can be divided evenly. (Which is why I'm always telling my husband we need either a sixth cat or a second house.) Take the case of Jonathan Eismann and Yves Picot, former co-proprietors of Pacific Time on South Beach and the year-old Pacific Heights in Coral Gables. Two men, two properties. When they decided to go their separate ways five months ago, no brutal battle ensued, no mud-slinging. Simply a quiet announcement to the press: Eismann would wind up with Pacific Time (where he's also the chef), Picot with Pacific Heights.

Eismann has always maintained that the separation was amicable. Picot agrees that they still have a healthy respect for each other and cites the pressure of opening a restaurant in Coral Gables as the main reason for the split. I don't doubt the stress. Trying to obtain permits in that city could drive anyone to road rage. Still, judging from the undertones that surfaced during conversations with both men, I'd surmise that creative differences and ego clashes were among the forces that drove them apart. Not to mention the third party (there's always a third party!), Alex Duff -- a silent investor who became a working partner at Pacific Time in the year or so before the split. Though Duff never had a vested interest in Pacific Heights, it's tough to draw a straight line between two people when there's a third lurking somewhere in the background.

And even the friendliest divorce isn't completely bloodless. Eismann probably lost the most plasma: Not only did he buy his way clear from Pacific Heights, he bought both partners out of Pacific Time. He also felt wounded by Duff's latest project -- a close copy of Pacific Time (called Pacific East) that opened in the Hamptons a few months ago with the help of chef Michael A. Castino, former chef de cuisine at Pacific Time.

If there was any damage to either party, though, it appears not to have been nearly fatal. Pacific Time seems to be doing a bustling business. And across the causeway Picot is getting Pacific Heights into top shape with several interesting and welcome changes.

Transition begins with the name, which is on its way to becoming The Heights. Picot doesn't have a contractual imperative to drop Pacific from the appellation, so the transfer has been slow (directory assistance still calls the restaurant by its original name, as do Picot's business cards, matchbooks, et cetera). Unlike Duff, Picot, who owned A Fish Called Avalon on South Beach before selling it in 1993 and going into business with Eismann, does want to distance himself and his eatery from Pacific Time. Until he paints over the exterior sign, however, that may be a little difficult.

The menu, and its creator, make the distinction more apparent. Picot ousted executive chef Frank Jeannetti, an Eismann protege, and promoted Frank Randazzo, who had been Jeannetti's sous chef. According to Picot, originality prompted the switch: Randazzo had his own ideas, whereas Jeannetti's were recycled. The results are an aggressive, spicy bill of fare that relies as much for inspiration on the Southwest as it does on Asia.

Dinner begins with crumbly, buttery jalapeno cornbread (on the house) and well-mixed martinis (not on the house but a bargain if you get there between 5:00 and 7:00 p.m. for happy hour). The cornbread, quickly replenished when depleted and partnered with a chili-spiced butter, sets the stage for peppery appetizers such as tuna carpaccio with green and red chili oil, pickled onion, and mizuna-citrus salad; chili-crusted quail with warm scallion wheat berry salad and jalapeno-orange sauce; and grilled marinated prawns in fennel, ginger, and shrimp broth with watercress, tomato, and cilantro.

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Jen Karetnick is an award-winning dining critic, food-travel writer, and author of the books Ice Cube Tray Recipes, Mango, and The 500 Hidden Secrets of Miami.
Contact: Jen Karetnick